Page:Life in the Old World - Vol. II.djvu/179

Rh such, to be commemorated as one of the most remarkable, and most interesting female characters of Italy.

Occupied by the contemplation of her monument, and of many splendid monuments of departed Popes, I lingered in St. Peter's until twilight came and extinguished the sunbeams, which slowly and as if with reluctance, withdrew from the church, beautiful portions and pictures of which they finally illumined with caressing and brilliant light. Darkness crept in, enveloping every object in this deeper, closer gloom—yet no—not all; for in proportion as it darkened, a circle of softly glimmering lights around the tomb of Peter and Paul, increased in brightness. A circle of silent supplicants bowed, as usual, on their knees around it. This circle, and above them, the gigantic rotunda of Michael Angelo, are the most beautiful monuments in St. Peter's Church.

I bore with me, from my conversation with the Pope, that he is naturally a man of liberal mind, who has become, as it were, incrusted and crystallized by the artificial institution and ceremonial life of the Popedom, so that his inner, original life has become quenched, and that he will continue in this form and will never more behold his former Christian identity, from the dread of coming into perpetual opposition to his present position and all his surroundings. He will believe on the divine institution of the Popedom, because he is Pope and because Roman Catholic Christianity will have a centre in the Pope and will maintain him upon his temporal throne, as such—for the present. He believes that it cannot be otherwise,