Page:Life in the Old World - Vol. I.djvu/426

442 church in the valleys of the Waldenses. It will contain about one thousand persons.

I have mostly seen it filled on the Sunday; and the number of men on such occasions is greater than that of the women, which I have never before seen in any church. The people are well, but simply clad; all the women in white caps, with starched and crimped, projecting borders, which are becoming to the aged, but which make the young look old. The countenances are well-formed, the features refined, but with more of the French than the Italian character; eyes dark and deep, the expression mild, but grave. This congregation presents in exterior and manners, a strong contrast to the Catholics, at whose services I have this day been present. Here were mantillas, and flowers; some were ragged and few serious. The preacher, in a fine parti-colored costume, preached on the sixth commandment. I did not understand much of his Italian patois, but yet sufficiently for me to hear that he was studious about picturesque effects, and that le donne should begin earnestly to make confession. The audience were evidently more amused than edified. They burst out more than once into involuntary laughter. The understanding between the Catholics and Waldenses, is no longer that of enemies; amongst some of the pastors of both parties it is friendly. The latest conspiracy against the Evangelicals, by a portion of the Catholic population, was put an end to by a Catholic priest. At La Torre the Catholic party is small, and confines its demonstrations to occasionally promenading around the market some