Page:Life in the Old World - Vol. I.djvu/213

Rh under the name of “St. Bèque,” and who was its first “Grande Dame.” Even to this day, the establishment is governed by a superintendent, who is called “la Grande Dame.” She was, at the present time, a lady of noble demeanor, of frank and agreeable manners. About three hundred unmarried ladies live in this institution. A vast number of separate houses are built together, like a castle-wall, around a very large court, which may be closed. Some beautiful trees grow in the court, in the centre of which stands the Bèguine church. According to the rule of St. Bèque, which “la Grande Dame” steadfastly maintains, the members of the institution must attend the church three times a day. They were there at the time we made our visit, and thither we also went.

A couple of hundred figures were seated in the large white-washed church, wrapped in large, white dresses, producing an effect as if they were made of ice. Immovable, and all, as it were, shaped in the same mould, they sate on their benches in rows,—all bowed towards the altar. The sight produced an icy effect upon me, which the singing of a remarkably pure and beautiful female voice (the only voice which was raised during this divine service,) was not able to melt. And perhaps this same feeling influenced my impression of the whole establishment, which, nevertheless, has many good points, and where we met with more than one educated and kindly-disposed person.

The private rooms and the common halls were all of the same character. Order and cleanliness prevailed; but of comfort and beauty, there seemed to be