Page:Life in the Old World - Vol. I.djvu/157

Rh Grisons. It is large, and represents the martydom of St. Stephen. Stephen is seen in the centre of the picture, sunk upon his knees, whilst his transported, beaming countenance is directed upwards. On the left, stand the people of the lowest grade, who are stoning him, frenzied, blood-thirsty, scarcely half-human, who, having tasted blood, are athirst for more, and rush blindly against the victim whose very purity irritates their savagery. On the right, you see a couple of Pharisees, who are turning away, with inexpressible scorn in their glance and on their lips. But Saul lingers, with a sense of reaction. You see, evidently, that thoughts and feelings are awakened in him which will afterwards make themselves acknowledged,—at the time when he hears the voice: “Saul, Saul, why persecutest thou me? It is hard for thee to kick against the pricks!” The expression in the countenance of the dying Stephen is the prick which, for the first time, has entered his heart. Deschwanden's picture has given me a better understanding of Paul's conversion.

Separated from the world in this convent-like quietness, Deschwanden seems to obtain, from the depths of his own soul, inspiration and the ideal. These have both purity and beauty, but hardly proportionable strength. Yet his Paul is grand, and he himself is one of the fortunate of the earth. We visited Winkelried's dwelling, or that which is said to be his,—a handsome but ruinous country-house, with its garden. The old-fashioned decorations of the rooms indicate an aristocratic condition. During the beautiful evening, we drove to Sarnen, the capital of Upper