Page:Life in Mexico vol 2.djvu/391



 San Bartolo — Mass — Market — Rancheros — San Andrés — Insanity — Rancho — House of Don Carlos Heimbürger — Wild scenery — German songs — Las Millas — Leave-taking — Storm — Rainbow — El Pilar — La Gabia — Toluca — News — Copper pronunciamento — Return to Mexico — General Moran — Funeral obsequies — New theatre — Cock's mass — Santa Clara — Santa Fé prisoners — New year.

14th.

taking leave of all our hospitable friends in Morelia, we set off in the afternoon, and had a delightful ride to San Bartolo. Fortunately, the following day, (Sunday) was that of the Virgin of Guadalupe, one of the greatest festivals here; so that we had an opportunity of seeing all the people from the different villages, who arrived in the court-yard by day-break; and held a market in front of the hacienda. Various were the articles for sale, and picturesque the dresses of the sellers. From cakes, chile, atole and ground-nuts, to rebosos and bead rosaries, nothing was omitted. In one part of the market, the sturdy rancheros were drinking pulque and devouring hot cakes; in another, little boys were bargaining for nuts and bananas; countrywomen were offering low prices for smart rebosos; an Indian woman was recommending a comb, with every term of endearment, to a young country-girl, who seemed perfectly