Page:Life in Mexico vol 2.djvu/377

Rh very handsome tortilleras. A number of women were carrying about a virgin all covered with flowers, to the sound of a little bell. It was about four o'clock when we arrived at the hills near Pascuaro. Here we dismounted from our horses, and remained till it was nearly dusk, lying on the grass, and gazing on the lake, as the shadows of evening stole slowly over its silver waters. Little by little the green islands became indistinct; a gray vapor concealed the opposite shores; and like a light breath spread gradually over the mirrored surface of the lake. Then we remounted our horses, and rode down into Pascuaro, where we found the Señora Ha as before, ready to receive us, and where, our mules being disabled, we propose remaining one or two days.

5th.—We have been spending a quiet day in Pascuaro, and went to mass in the old church, which is handsome and rich in gilding. At the door is printed in large letters—"For the love of God, all good Christians are requested not to spit in this holy place." If we might judge from the observation of one morning, I should say that the better classes in Pascuaro are fairer and have more color than is general in Mexico—and if this is so, it may be owing partly to the climate being cooler and damper, and partly to their taking more exercise—there being no carriages here—whereas in Mexico, no family of any importance can avoid having one.

We were very anxious to see some specimens of that Mosaic work, which all ancient writers upon Mexico have celebrated, and which was nowhere