Page:Letters from the Battle-fields of Paraguay (1870).djvu/484



454 AT AND ABOUT ASUNCION.

lish markets, and though mild in flavour were very heady. Yet, as you know, certain connoisseur friends in London did not dislike them.

We wished to visit the French colony of Nueva Burdeos, which I have said proved an utter failure. The site of this place and of other small towns on the far hank of the river may be seen from the uplands, but they may not be visited without the permission of the Brazilian Admiral, who is apt to refuse, judging the trip unsafe. We ascended the highest ground behind Asuncion, despite the dreadful effluvia from the carcases of cattle, and enjoyed a charming view of the little city, the noble expanse of the river valley, the grand sweep of the stream, and the sinuosities of the Pilcomayo's mouth. On the summit is a mangrullo, with three ladders and a solid roof, guarded by a detachment of Bra- zilians, and behind it is a cemetery, small and new.

We visited more than once Dr. Stewart^s quinta, east- ward and out of town. The road runs by the railway w^orkshops, which are unimportant ; and past the little church of S. Boque, a single-steepled aff*air, like most of the others. It then crosses two small wooden bridges thrown across the " Chorro," a rivulet of spring water, at whose mouth ships fill their tanks, and under whose dwarf falls the citizens in happier days enjoyed their douches. Then leaving the railway to the left, our route winds across deep sand, and we pass the house occupied by the Oriental army of 150 men, under General Castro. They are detained here by the general want of transport. On the right is the garden in which are encamped 350 Paraguayan soldiers in charge of two brass guns. I confess that Asuncion appeared at that time eminently open to a coy p -de -main. The garrison consisted of some thousand Brazilians, dispersed in barracks ; in case of a surprise these men, who are subject to panics, however stoutly they may have stood up in the field, would