Page:Letters from the Battle-fields of Paraguay (1870).djvu/217



A GLANCE AT BUENOS AIRES. 187

are no figures worthy of attention. The distinction of ranks is here not very perceptible, and even the emigrants become as a rule exceedingly Republican. Girls of the best families may be seen in stores, shaking hands over the counter and chaffing with the shopboys^ whilst these may be the sons of ex-Ministers, and perhaps may become Ministers them- selves. A peculiar familiarity of conversation is customary ; you soon address D. Maria A. B. C. de Tal as D. Maria, and presently D. Maria as " Mariquita/^ whilst she honours Mr. Smith by interpellating him O Smith!

The fine reading-room of the club is turned into an appropriate dancing saloon. The white and yellow hangings, and the three ormolu chandeliers are not at all like our stout leather -lined seats, solid mahogany tables, and ponderous gas-stars. The ceiling is low, and insufficiently pierced with ventilating holes; the carpet is too soft for anything but languid dancing, and silk-covered ottomans dis- posed, as sailors say, " athwart ship,^' cut the long room into three small compartments, and absolutely forbid rusliing or whisking. The thing is to lead out some small dark person, to hold her moderately close, to twist mincingly round upon yourself some half a dozen times, to stop with a jerk, and then to stand amongst the lookers-on. Young Buenos Aires is not given to affecting manliness. He has still to learn the value of athletic sports, and to attend the school of arms.

In the red satin room are refreshments, tea and coffee â€” '^ no mas.^^ A little before dawn is a succulent supper, to which the sexes in couples sit down and are served; the single man must wait till he can serve himself. We look round in vain for flirtation even over the tea, or after the great event of the evening. This form of salut before the real assaut d'armes apparently awaits introduction. A grand serieux is the humour, except when the normal French