Page:Letters from the Battle-fields of Paraguay (1870).djvu/213



A GLANCE AT BUENOS AIRES. 183

Again you go back to the main square and continue Bolivar-street, to the north-west known as San Martin. This is perhaps the most familiar to foreigners : No. 44 is the Club de los Estrangeros Residentes, and the liberality with which the traveller is temporarily admitted free to all the privileges of members, imposes upon us a debt of gra- titude. Beyond it is Mr. Mackern's stationery store â€” it is wonderful that some enterprising London publisher does not use this and similar establishments to make a clientele in South America. English books are extensively read both by natives and foreigners, but few will take the trouble of sending for them to England. Beyond lies the Bourse of Buenos Aires, a contemptible affair, ruinous inside, and outside unworthy of a country town.

A turn to the left up Cangallo-street takes you into Calle Florida (not Florida), the Regent Street. Here are the best shops in the place, barbers and jewellers, mercers and modistes, hatters and bootmakers, tobacconists and lollipop vendors. The prices are double those of Europe, the quality is very inferior, but the farther up country you go, the worse you fare. Here girls walk alone by day ; giving the place a gay look, and "shopping^-' becomes once more possible. Crossing the Calle Paraguay â€” after rain a torrent â€” we enter the Plaza de Marte, alias the Betiro, celebrated for the barracks of Dictator Rosas. We stare and wag the head at the equestrian statue of General San Martin, and we remember that General Beresford held this place in 1807, since which time many a wretched political offender has gazed at it with hot and weary eyes before being blindfolded, and seated upon the fatal banquillo.

Passing the Church of San Miguel, and some old domi- ciles which look like fortresses, you may visit if you like the Recoleta or Metropolitan Cemetery. Here formerly was