Page:Letters from the Battle-fields of Paraguay (1870).djvu/209



A GLANCE AT BUENOS AIRES. 179

floor habitations, contains the office of the Revista Journal, and is not to be removed.

The Recoba Nueva, another row of uninteresting alcoves supporting dwelling-li^ses, faces the cathedral, and forms a right angle with the Recoba Vieja. Here is one of the few stands for hackney coaches, which have room for six when wanted for one. Tilburys, cabs, and above all things Hansoms, are an ever-increasing want ; at present the only light vehicles are private. The fares are not exorbitant, but it is as well to make your bargain, and never to trust in the matter of calling for you at night. Finding scanty pleasure in driving over vile pavements and viler roads, most people here prefer riding ; and the livery stables, though dear and mostly kept by foreigners, are tolerable. Some years hence a pair of tramways will cross the city to the four quarters of the compass, and will make a fortune for somebody. Buenos Aires, take example from Rio de Janeiro!

The western side of the Plaza is devoted in the main to the culte of Justice, such as she is. The Cabildo, or Mu- nicipality, dating from 1711, is a useful public servant; its tall white tower, its clock illuminated at night, are the best of landmarks, and regulate all appointments. The Cabildo front is a portico, under whose shade officers in Magenta caps and bags, riding chairs, eye the passers by ; where liver-coloured and black-coated men, evidently " doctores " from the law courts below, and the notaries' offices hard by, carry on eager and gesticulatory conversations ; and where European and Negro sentinels pace in heavy march- ing order before the entrance of the filthy jail.

Here and there we see and avoid the policeman jn his briquet, leather-pointed casquctte, and dark uniform. Almost incredible in a city otherwise so highly civilized is the im- punity of crime ; you feci as if living in an aff reuse tuerie^

12â€”2