Page:Letters from the Battle-fields of Paraguay (1870).djvu/113



FROM RIO DE JANEIRO TO MOxNTE VIDEO. 83

of delirium tremens^ and I show my gratitude by pointing out what is required to perfect it.

Meanwhile the Royal Mail has made two moves in the right direction. Freights were frightful; they have now been reduced from 10/. to 3/. \0s. Ocl. per ton. The lowest first class between Buenos Aires and London, including five days at Rio_, costs 35/., decidedly cheap locomotion for thirty-six days. The highest fare is 80/., which hires a single cabin upon the upper deck. It is a good principle to make the necessaries of travel as cheap as possible, and the luxuries dear to those who can afford them. The details, however, may be improved. For instance, 35/. is too little : it crowds the saloons with wild bipeds who should be shipped forwards. Nothing but first and second class should be allowed, and so forth. I would also advise the purser, when there are 300 passengers on board, to have breakfast on the table from 8 to 11 a.m., as is the custom of the English country house.

That Thursday when Blue Peter came down, was a grey day, and the beautiful face of Rio Bay gave me a parting scowl which I did not deserve. As we started at 8 a.m. no jollity was there. You should see the contrast at Buenos Aires when an old habitue leaves. Then Englishmen and Germans congregate : then is consumed an intolerable deal of pale sherry â€” four shillings on board and ten on shore : then national anthems are sung, and bravos and vivas, " hoorays ^' and hurrahs are howled, and then are prodi- gious kissings, embracings, and tear-sheddings, not unac- companied by bonnetings.

Before us lay five dreary days to cover 1040 miles, which may, at this season, afford a rough passage. August 30 is the anniversary of Santa Rosa, a young person who, per- haps you do not know, patronizes South America, and the fete of the fair Limena â€” she was not like St. Catherine of

6â€”2