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298 Coming out of the cathedral, we met a Sicilian country cart, drawn by one powerful mule, and carrying at least eight persons, for Sicilians are certainly not "merciful to their beasts." These carts are of the same build and decoration as in the old days of the Norman kings. Two high wheels, curiously carved and painted, run on an axle of elaborate pattern. The side panels contain scenes of old Sicilian history: King Roger mowing off the heads of Saracen Emirs with a huge sword; scenes of vintage; legendary stories of Sicilian martyrs. The mule's harness, too, was of ancient pattern, studded with brass ornament, and from the saddle there rose a tall standard, tufted at the top with coloured wool and ribbons. As yet Sicily has not adopted modern agricultural implements to any great extent. Whatever the country may lose by this, at any rate the visitor does not lose the charm of antiquity. I saw a cart in process of painting, and wondered what English agricultural labourers would think of a farm cart, destined for all sorts of "base" uses, being blazoned with the exploits of King Alfred in his conflicts with the Danes, or the story of the Battle of Hastings.

If ever you visit Sicily, go to Girgenti, on the Southern coast, the ancient Greek acragas, and Roman Agrigentum, "the most beautiful city of mortals," as Pindar says. The modern city stands on the site of the ancient Acropolis, from which the hills slope down to the coast. On a ridge which fronts the sea-shore you see the line of the old walls that fenced the city, and there still stand in ruin some of the finest Greek temples in the world. Climb up the Rupe Atenea, the Mount of Athena, the patron goddess of the city, making your way knee deep in brilliant red sainfoin,