Page:Kitecraft and kite tournaments (1914).djvu/130

122 Fig. 247. We will now take off two big slices, not all in one cut, but in several. Fig. 248 has the dotted lines showing the depth to be cut, and Fig. 249 shows these same parts cut away. Now cut away x and x until the blade is curved back to edges z and z. The cut away portions will be as in Fig. 250. Cut the opposite side the same way, and cut away the back corners a little, giving the result as shown in Fig. 251. Sandpaper well and shellac. Drill hole carefully for the propeller shaft.

The principal objection to the metal propellor is the bending that is liable to occur when the model lights, unless there are lighting devices underneath, and they all add weight. The hub propellers may have metal or hardwood veneers for fans. The hub may be round or square; see Figs. 252 and 253. Very good propellers may be made in this way. Extra curvature of the outer ends of the fans is possible, Fig. 254.

The veneer propeller must be steamed and pressed. This is by far the most difficult to make. The ″ hardwood veneer is the best. The propeller is not reoinforced to make up for the extra thickness of the carved propeller, but is of uniform thickness thruout. The veneer is first cut to shape in outline and then is steamed and twisted to shape. Fig. 255 shows a pattern for a propeller blade. The veneer should be steamed or soaked in hot water until the wood is very pliable and soft. A form should be ready so as to get both wings with equal twist from the central portion. I will suggest one, others can be devised. A clamp is necessary for the center, which may be made as follows: take a one-inch piece of wood about 1″ wide and any length. Set it up