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Rh The Kalmucks have carefully preserved their ancient manners and special costume. Van Mitten was able to note that the men wore large trousers, boots of Morocco leather, a khalate (a kind of very ample wadded dressing gown), and a square cap, trimmed with sheepskin. The women were dressed very much in the same manner, with the exception of the girdle, and a cap, from which their hair, trimmed with parti-coloured ribbons, escaped. The children were almost naked; and, during the winter, to warm themselves, they crouch in the ashes in the kibitka, and sleep amid the hot cinders of the hearth.

The Kalmucks are small of stature, but robust; excellent horsemen, quick, agile, and smart. Their food is a little flour mixed with water, and cooked with horseflesh. But they are confirmed drunkards, skilful thieves, ignorant, superstitious to excess, incorrigible gamblers, like all the nomads of the Caucasian steppes.

The post-chaise passed through one of the khotonnes without attracting any particular attention. The people scarcely took the trouble to look at the travellers, one of whom, at least, observed them with great interest. Perhaps they coveted the rapid horses of the vehicle; but, fortunately for Kéraban, they confined themselves to the wish. So the horses reached the next stage, without having exchanged their loose box for the picket of the Kalmuck encampment.

The chaise, having skirted the Bay of Zemes, found the road closed in between the spurs of the mountains and the sea. But, beyond the bay, the route widened out, and became more easy.

At eight o'clock the bourgade of Gelendschik was gained. There the travellers supped hastily, and at nine o'clock continued their journey. They proceeded all night, and at seven o'clock in the morning reached Beregowaja; at midday they gained Dschuba; at six p.m., Tenginsh; at midnight, Nebugsk; next morning, at eight o'clock, Golowinsk; at eleven, Lachowsk; and, two hours later, Ducha.

Ahmet would have been puzzled to complain of all this. The journey had been accomplished without accident;