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 DRY MASH HOPPER NO. 1

There are many kinds of dry mash hoppers on the market but it is difficult to find one that is not wasteful. This hopper which is made of poplar is easily made and it has been found to be very successful. It may be built of the desired length and made to hold the required amount of dry mash. The most important detail in the building of this hopper is the slope of the bottom which must be at an angle of forty-five degrees with the wall of the henhouse. It must be built well off the floor with a roost placed for the hens to stand on while they are feeding. This will keep the litter out of the hopper. The wire netting must be of one-quarter inch square mesh which is fastened to the hopper and stretched to the bottom of the trough at its lowest point.



12-1/2' poplar. 1 lb. 6-penny nails. 16 3/4" No. 8 screws. 32 No. 10 screws. 2 pairs of 1-1/2" (butt) hinges. 1 piece of 1/4" mesh wire. 2" × 2" gate hooks.



Body: 2 pieces 1" thick × 5" wide × 26" long, to be used as the ends of the hopper.

2 pieces 1" thick × 9" wide × 19" long, to be used as the top and the bottom of the hopper.

1 piece 1" thick × 19" wide × 26" long, to be used as back of the hopper.

1 piece 1" thick × 19" wide × 17" long, to be used as front of hopper.

Trough: 1 piece 1" thick × 4" wide × 19" long, to be used as front of trough.

1 piece 1" thick × 5" wide × 19" long, to be used as the lid in the front of trough.

2 pieces 1" thick × 4" wide × 9" long, to be used as sides of trough.

Roost: 1 piece 1" thick × 2" wide × 21" long, to be used as front of the roost.

2 pieces 1" thick × 2" wide × 15" long, to be used as sides of roost.



Take the two end pieces (1" × 5" × 26") and cut the tops at an angle of 60 degrees and the bottom of these ends at an angle of 45 degrees. Nail the bottom piece (1" × 9" × 19") to these end pieces and then nail on the back (1" × 9" × 26").