Page:History of the Fylde of Lancashire (IA historyoffyldeof00portiala).pdf/132

 green; the appearance of such an one upon a holiday is described by Skelton, the laureate of Henry VII., as under:—

"Her kirtle bristow red, With cloths upon her head, They weigh a ton of lead. She hobbles as she goes, With her blanket hose, Her shoone smeared with tallow."

In the following reign, the commonalty, in imitation of the example set by the resident squires in this and other parts of the kingdom, became so extravagant in their ideas of suitable habiliments that Henry VIII. issued an edict, prohibiting them from wearing ornaments of even the most simple description, and confining them to the use of cloth at a certain fixed price, and lambs' fur only. At the same time, velvets of any colour, furs of martens, chains, bracelets, and collars of gold were allowed only to those who possessed an income of not less than two hundred marks per annum; but the sons and heirs of such were permitted to wear black velvet or damask, and tawny-coloured russet or camlet. None but those in the yearly receipt of one hundred marks could venture on satin or damask robes. The dress which may be taken as the most characteristic garb under the sovereignty of the last Henry and of his two immediate successors, comprised a doublet with long bases, or skirts, and extensive sleeves, over which was thrown a short cloak, provided with arm*-holes for the passage of the doublet sleeves. The cloak had a wide rolling collar, made of velvet, fur, or satin, according to taste. The shirt was plaited, and embroidered with gold, silver, or silk. The hose were closely fitted to the limb, being in some cases long and entire, and in others divided, under the names of the upper and nether stocks. Slashed shoes, or buskins of velvet and satin, with broad toes, and a cap of one of sundry forms, either simply bordered, or laden with feathers, completed the costume of every male member of the numerous families inhabiting the ancient halls of this section. Sir Walter Scott, who is generally allowed to have been pretty correct in the costumes of his heroes and minor characters, has described the appearance of a yeoman of our county about the middle of the sixteenth century as follows:—