Page:History of the Fylde of Lancashire (IA historyoffyldeof00portiala).pdf/131

 were long and tight. The boots were either short, or reached half-way up the thighs, both kinds being long toed. Occasionally a single feather relieved the plainness of the turban-shaped cap. The ordinary dress of the gentlewomen was a full trained robe or gown, made high in the neck, and sometimes, with a fur or velvet turn-over collar, its folds at the short-waist being confined by means of a simple band and buckle. Coiffures were mostly heart-*shaped, but in some rare instances horned. The sleeves of the above costume were, shortly after its institution, lengthened and widened to a ridiculous extent. Towards the end of the particular era of which we are writing trains were discontinued, and broad borders of fur substituted, whilst round tapering hats, two feet in height, with loose kerchiefs floating from the apex, came much into favour. The last few years of the fifteenth and the earliest ones of the sixteenth centuries were marked by great changes in the male attire; the Butlers, Cliftons, Carletons, Westbys, Allens, Molyneux, and many others of the gentry of the neighoourhood, figured at that period in fine shirts of long lawn, embroidered with silk round the collar and wristbands, a doublet with sleeves open at the elbows to allow the shirt to protrude, a stomacher, over which the doublet was laced; a long gown or cloak, with loose or hanging sleeves and broad turn-over collar of fur or velvet; long hose or stockings; broad-toed shoes for ordinary use, and high boots, reaching to the knees, for riding purposes; and broad felt hats, or variously shaped caps of fur or velvet, adorned with ostrich or other feathers. The hair was permitted to grow enormously long and fall down the back and over the shoulders, but the face was still cleanly shaved, with the exception of military and aged persons, who wore mustaches or beards. The wives and daughters, belonging to such families as those alluded to, were habited in upper garments, cut square at the neck, and stomachers, belts, and buckles, or costly girdles with long pendants in front. The sleeves were slit at the elbows in a manner similar to those of the men. High head-dresses were abandoned, and a cap or caul of gold net or embroidery, which allowed the hair to flow beneath it half way to the ground, took their place. Turbans, also, were fashionable for a brief season. The females of a humbler sphere wore plain grey cloth gowns, ornamented with lambs' skin or wool, and cloaks of Lincoln