Page:History of the Fylde of Lancashire (IA historyoffyldeof00portiala).pdf/130

 the men underwent no alteration of any moment until the first half of the fourteenth century, when the manorial lords of the neighbourhood, and others of the inhabitants, discarded the cloaks and tunics of their forefathers, and substituted in their stead a close-fitting outer garment of costly and handsome material, scarcely covering the hips, immediately above which it was surrounded by a girdle. The sleeves usually terminated at the elbows, and from there long white streamers depended, whilst the sleeves of an under dress reached to the wrists, and were ornamented with rows of buttons. A long cape and cowl was the general overcoat. The most characteristic dress of the ladies was a habit cut away at the sides so as to expose the under skirt, which was invariably of rich and fine texture. The long white streamers, just alluded to, were part of the female as well as the male attire, and the borders of the habit were bound with fur or velvet. We may mention that an English beau of that era wore long pointed shoes, the toes of which were connected with the knees by gold or silver chains, a long stocking of different colour on each leg, short trowsers, barely extending to the middle of the thigh, a coat, half of which was white and the other blue or some equally bright colour, and a silken hood or bonnet, fastened under the chin, embroided with grotesque figures of animals, and occasionally decked with gold and precious stones. Lest, however, the reputations of our ancestors should suffer in the eyes of the present generation from the existence in their age of the absurdity here pictured, it is our duty and pleasure to assure all readers that such parodies on manhood were strictly confined to the populous cities, and that there is no probability of even a solitary specimen ever having desecrated the modest soil of the Fylde.

During the greater portion of the succeeding cycle of a hundred years a species of cloth turban was much in favour amongst the male sex of the middle and upper classes, from one side of which a lengh of the same material hung down below the waist, and was either thrust between the girdle and the coat, or wrapped round the neck as a protection from cold. Faces were cleanly shaved, and hair cut as close to the scalp as possible; hitherto, from about the date of the first arrival of the Normans, the practice had been to allow the latter to grow long and to wear the beard. The hose