Page:History of West Australia.djvu/87

Rh the eighth day they ate nothing but "hottentot figs" and a sturgeon, which they killed with a ramrod. A raft was made, by which they crossed the rivers at Leschenault, and after searching, they found some provisions which had been left there by the Lieut.-Governor's party. The country traversed up to the Murray and Swan Rivers was already known, and Dewar and Smith accomplished the distance in safety. They were put to some suffering for want of fresh water, but obtained ample food by shooting birds and boiling periwinkles. The date of their arrival at Perth is not mentioned in the record, nor is their report to be wholly relied on.

His Majesty's ship Sulphur was still attached to the settlement, and while not anchored in Cockburn Sound, cruised round the coast. A wider knowledge was obtained of the bays and harbours in this way, especially those of the south-western and southern mains, near the settlements which had been formed. Early in 1831 the Sulphur was coasting in the south, and when near Ramé Point two officers and several men went off in a whale-boat to examine the coast. Ample provisions were taken in the boat. The country from Ramé Point to King George's Sound was fairly well known by the explorations of Captain Bannister and Dr. Wilson, but it was desired to closely search the bays and inlets from there to Augusta, and on to Swan River, for suitable ports and anchorages.

On 18th April the whale-boat left the Sulphur and stood in shore. A heavy land breeze and swell impeded its progress, and it was only after severe exertion that the men were able to round the Point. The further they went the more the wind and swells increased, and when nearing the shore its rocky surf-crowned front had small attraction for the mariners. Finally they found a large estuary, which they entered. Although the entrance was narrow, the estuary supplied an excellent anchorage for coastal vessels drawing 7 feet of water. Seas broke over a rock on the left shore, and a constant roar came off the whipped beach beyond. Some time was employed in cruising about this large estuary. Their larder was materially increased by the hospitality of natives met on the shore, who brought them broiled fish. The reception of the explorers on this and previous expeditions by the natives was most friendly, and shows the encouragement generously given by black to white in South Western Australia. The party did not leave the estuary that night, but rested opposite a sand spit at the entrance.

In the morning they breakfasted at five o'clock; nor were they hardly risen from their bivouac before the natives appeared on the opposite spit with lighted firebrands in their hands—it was not yet daylight—and beckoned them across. Mr. Skottowe, one of the officers, and two men went over and held friendly commmunication with them, and afforded them noisy delight at the ease with which they caught small schnapper in the sea; a delight which was even more demonstrative when the natives were presented with the greater share of the takings. Then the party pulled out and sailed close inshore to the east. Breakers roaring and dashing over black rocks made a fine picture for many miles along the coast, but offered no welcome to them; moreover, their boat needed to be "particularly lively" to keep close in. At eight o'clock Point Nuyts was rounded. The breezes were now fresh and squally. By the Point they observed an island not marked in the charts of navigators, not even in that excellent chart compiled by Peter Nuyts, the discoverer, whose name is perpetuated at Point Nuyts. The shore thence on to Cape Chatham was unsafe and bedecked with foam. Beyond were little bays, where landing was possible. Ahead the leader—whose name is not mentioned in the records, but evidently it was Lieutenant Preston—observed an opening, bounded by heavy breakers, and after hauling a little distance towards it, he bore off for the island off D'Entrecasteaux Point. To seaward were several suspicious-looking glistening breakers, and in front foam-clad rocks. The mariners beached the boat on the mainland about four miles east of the island, making a course through a slight surf, with breakers on the left. Their camp was fixed upon a low sand-hill, near which was a calm sheet of fresh water, covered with swans, ducks, and other game, and filled with seaweed. Smoke rose from native fires about a mile from camp.

Breakfast was eaten at four o'clock on the morning of the 20th, and soon after daylight they launched the boat and passed inside an island off D'Entrecasteaux Point, finding a very good channel for small vessels. A suitable anchorage was believed to exist under Flat Island. After rounding D'Entrecasteaux Point the weather became so rough that the boat took more water forward than the men could bale out. They were then two miles from land, and lowering the sail, proceeded to pull inshore. So powerful was the sea that it took three hours to accomplish the distance. On what appeared the beach was a very heavy surf, but as the weather showed no signs of moderating, and they were in an awkward predicament, they boldly pulled in. When the first breakers were lifted they found, to their utter astonishment, these roaring breakers to extend half a mile from the shore, so seething and strong that they had never known a boat to land in the like. It was impossible to turn back with safety, and they were compelled to keep the boat directly before the breakers. She bounded over several most satisfactorily, but when she reached an outer beach the furious surge lifted the boat and threw her upon her bottom. The craft Was filled and nearly turned over. Before another ponderous wave could reach her she righted herself and floated. The next breaker carried her much nearer the shore, and while it receded and before the next oncoming, the men jumped out and held the boat from being sucked back. Another surf hove her on shore. Had the men not kept their places upon the first striking, the chronicler says, all must have been lost. As it was, their perishable provisions were ruined; the rest were got out and dried.

For the two following days the party waited at this place in hopes that the weather would enable them to again launch the boat. But the storm and surf were, if anything, fiercer than when they landed, and they deemed it impossible to make further use of their favourite craft. During these two days she was pulled to what appeared a safer launching-point, but upon running her into the water a heavy wave struck the boat, and drove it with force against one of the sailors, nearly costing him his life. A native came from among the sand-hills and neighbouring brushwood, and when the leader descried him afar off, he went to meet him. A mutual welcome was extended, the native warrior handed his three spears and throwing-stick to the mariner, and the latter allowed the other to carry his gun. Thus they returned to the boat, and the aboriginal appeared astonished when he was made to understand that she was landed in the surf. After putting clothes upon him, giving him a stocking full of sugar, a little bread, and as much cloth as he wished to take, he departed.

With improvised knapsacks—blankets, one gun, ammunition, an axe, spirits, and other provisions—the sailors regretfully left the boat at 3.20 a.m. on the 23rd, and proceeded towards Augusta. About sunrise they passed over one river, and crossed a second a few hours later. They walked twenty miles, and at 5.30 in the evening stopped, and slept heavily until two o'clock on the following morning. Again shouldering their knapsacks, they recommenced their march while it was yet dark. At times they were compelled to take to the land by reason of projecting points, and in the dim light they found