Page:History of West Australia.djvu/68

 50 and Dr. Collie left Cockburn Sound prepared to make an extensive trip along the coast and into the southern country. Before they returned on the 30th November they explored Geographe Bay, and brought back the encouraging news which largely led to southern settlement, and resulted in the foundation in after years of Bunbury and Busselton. Early in the morning they left the ship in two whaleboats, and went through the channel between Garden Island and Cape Peron. They carefully noted their route, and compiled a report and map of soundings and positions which were likely to be useful in the navigation of the coast. During that day they sailed into the Murray River to discover the depth of water and the suitability of the mouth for a harbour. In the evening they landed on the western bank of the river, and passed the night amid trees and shrubs with squalls of wind and rain as cheerless visitors. For two days they remained in and about the Murray, and found some good but somewhat irregular channels approaching it, while the country was noted to be sandy and often void of vegetation near the shore, but inland they saw an expansive plain of rich country. Large numbers of natives seemed very anxious to thoroughly scrutinise the boats, and sought to detain the party a considerable time among them. Animated interviews were held, and several aboriginals waded into the water to admire the novelty of boats and white men.

The Murray was left on the 20th, but little headway was made during the next two days, for strong sea breezes compelled them to run the boats through the surf on shore. At their first landing place they were not able to get fresh water until, ascending a high sand mound, they discerned a lake running parallel with the beach, a mile inland. Little of interest was viewed down the coast. Sand mounds fronted the sea, while occasional regular-looking eminences arose behind. Port Leschenault was reached on the 23rd, where they landed and pitched their tents, intending to examine the inlets. Numerous natives soon drew near to them, "who testified the greatest and most friendly eagerness" to be allowed to approach.

About two miles and a half from their camp a river was discovered "flowing over a shallow to the estuary. There are two mouths to the river, with a low sandy island between them and the one we entered; the westernmost was afterwards found the most shallow." A mile further up another island was come upon in the river beyond which they filled their barricoes with fresh water. Then they turned back. About thirty or forty natives assembled on the banks and ran into the shallow water to closely watch them. None of them carried weapons, and all held green boughs in their hands. The soil and productions seen this day seemed good and luxuriant, except for a few heights where sand predominated. It was late when they returned to the camp, but they secured little rest, for a member of the crew was soon missed. A search was made for him without avail, nor did he appear next morning. It had been intended to continue the tour down the coast to Port Vasse on the 24th, but rather than be open to blame for abandoning the fellow, they remained. He was not an altogether desirable assistant, and all believed he had voluntarily deserted them. A diligent search was made in the country immediate to the coast, and meanwhile Mr. Collie and Mr. Preston again went up the river for fresh water. As they were returning the man was found on the banks. He told the story that while away from the party he saw an almost naked native woman who greeted him with such shrieks as to attract two men. He rushed to a river which he swam while spears were falling round him from the natives. He got off in safety. The explorers now took him back to the camp. At different points up the river the natives curiously congregated on the banks to watch the progress of the boat, and when it passed them they made a circuit and gathered round the explorers' camp, carrying green boughs in their hands. The subsequent interview was amicable, and the natives went away apparently satisfied with what they had seen and received in gifts.

In the afternoon of the same day another river was discovered and examined for a short distance. The soil here was of blackish brown earth—a good mixture of loam and mould—about two feet deep. Ferns, sow thistles, stringy bark and other trees grew on the banks. These two rivers thenceforth became known as the Collie and Preston Rivers. Port Vasse was entered early on the 25th. This port was better known than Leschenault, and the commanders of the party being evidently little impressed by what country they saw, made their way back to the latter on the same day. Smoke was observed at several parts of the intervening coast, and natives were seen on the beach and shouted as they went by.

At Port Leschenault, Messrs. Collie and Preston more thoroughly examined the rivers which bear their name. Several swans were shot and one or two cooked, and multitudes of ducks were seen. During the following days they made their way up the coast, and after examining the several months of the Murray River, returned to the ship on the 30th. The Lieutenant-Governor thus acquired more elaborate information both of the southern coast and the possibilities of the country.

Early in the month of December, Mr. Dale made a further attempt to trace the Helena River, upon the lower levels of which settlers were already gathering. He set out on the 7th, and on this occasion, after crossing the Swan above Perth, took a more easterly course than previously. A light sandy loam was observable till within four miles of the mountains, when it changed to a red soil, which continued through the valley ascending the first mountain. About three miles further on they crossed the Helena, which had little current. The journey to this was mostly over a hilly and rocky country, generally sandy, with occasional patches of good soil. Thenceforward the route eastward lay over rocky hills, from many of which fine views were obtained of the country on every side. Huge trees reared their heads on these eminences, and among them grew beautiful wild flowers. The largest trees were of wide girth and very straight, while smaller ones in places had an exceedingly rugged, gnarled appearance. Mr. Dale went east and south until he reached the apex of a mountain, rising apparently 1,400 feet from its base. From there he descried a range of mountains, about "twenty-five miles" to the east, at whose base he saw the smoke of various native fires. Then he turned back, and reached Perth on the 15th December. His journey proved an arduous one, and by its means more information was obtained of the eastern country, which, however, did not promise well under cultivation, but some of the hills were believed to offer good pasture for sheep. The Helena was traced to "a chain of ponds."

In the same month Dr. J. B. Wilson, R.N., left King George's Sound with Mr. Kent, a soldier, two convicts, and an intelligent native, named Mokare, to explore the country in the direction of the Swan River. Major Lockyer, Captain. Wakefield, and Messrs. Tallemath and Butler had gone some distance inland to the north-east, but none of their journals or reports exists among the Western Australian records. From the settlement Dr. Wilson proceeded N.N.W., and seven miles distant his band crossed a