Page:History of West Australia.djvu/48

 34 sides to the canal. The climate is most delightful, the soil is good, and in many places exceedingly rich, and capable of producing any of the European vegetables and fruits, as well as tropical."

He reported that the soil when nearing the hills was the richest virgin loam, and suitable for any crop. The "stony nature of the hills rendered them admirably adapted for the culture of the vine. Proceeding up the river, the country opens into immense plains of the most fertile description, the soil is rich brown earth extending to the base of the mountains."

The Success weighed anchor on the 21st March, and on the 24th Geographe Bay was made, and the vessel sailed along the coast towards its innermost point. About thirty natives caught sight of them and followed them into the bay for about thirty miles, stopping opposite their anchorage. They seated themselves in a body at the base of a "mountain" and eagerly scanned the movements of those on board the frigate. The officers and men collected presents, such as knives, saws, pieces of stuff, handkerchiefs, beads, bread and sugar, and put off in boats to the shore. These were distributed, while some of the crew danced and completely won the hearts of the savages. Two chiefs ventured to go on board, and were astonished beyond measure at the size of the ship. Every detail interested them, but they were most pleased when they caught sight of the galley fire, and delightedly cried, "Hubboa, hubboa." After they were rigged out in mariners' jackets, trousers, &c., they were landed.

While this had been going on Mr. Fraser remained on land in the company of the main body of natives. He writes that this tribe, "contrary to most of the aboriginals who have not had any communication with civilised man, are extremely fond of spirituous liquids." When he landed he presented to one a white shirt, and a jacket to a second. These presents were eagerly accepted, but when the chiefs were observed returning from the ship more gaudily apparelled in mariners’ jackets, hats, and ruffled shirts, the recipients cunningly hurried into the bush, hid their presents, and ran back to the shore, apparently in hopes of receiving brighter looking gifts. Some of the natives observing this ruse went into the bush and, finding the clothes, delivered them to the chief, who seemed to frown. Before leaving them Mr. Fraser, who was well acquainted with the habits of the natives in the east, joined the tribe in the corroboree, which gave much delight.

Geographe Bay was left on the 2nd April, and after beating for several days to windward off Cape Leeuwin the party reached King George's Sound. The vessel was anchored beneath the little settlement of Major Lockyer, and there remained for some days. The explorers were eagerly welcomed by the lonely men, whose practical banishment was weighing heavily on them. Of the settlement Captain Gilbert reported that "the expectations formed of King George’s Sound have by no means been realised; the soil is wretched; with the utmost care and attention they have not hitherto been able to bring anything a few inches from the ground." For the first time they were in somewhat serious straits through want of food supplies, for of the six months' provisions which were sent with them only enough remained for thirty days on half allowance.

To their surprise the officers found that the cutter which had started with them had not even arrived at the sound. They afterwards learnt that the slight vessel had met with such heavy weather that, despairing of reaching his destination within the allotted time, the master put back to Port Jackson.

Before leaving, the commander of the Success gave the party ale and equal to two months' provisions on short allowance. On entering King George's Sound, Captain Gilbert characterises the scenery as being "bold and magnificent; lofty mountains in various shapes, the curiously formed islands, the sea breaking violently on the rocks, give it a most striking effect, but there is the same time a barren appearance in the landscape that so fatigues the eye of the spectator." A curious plant named the Pitcher, greatly interested the party. It is indigenous, Gilbert reported only to this part of the globe, and grows in the marshy ground. At the top of thin stalks of about two feet high are small flowers similar to the lily in form, only much smaller, and possessing no smell. "On the stalk, just above the soil, grow several flowers shaped similar to a pitcher, with a cover or top to them. When there is rain or heavy dew these covers lift up and receive and retain all the moisture that falls into them, and on its leaving off raining the covers shut down, and thus prevent the water escaping. The pitchers thus contain sufficient to supply the plant with nourishment for the whole of the dry season. Each pitcher contains from one to three tablespoonfuls of water."

The Success now made her way back to Sydney in safety, and Captain Stirling shortly after her arrival gave a banquet on board.

It is necessary, in order to show the representation upon which the Swan River Colony was mainly established, to summarise the report of the Colonial Botanist, Mr. Charles Fraser, on the country contiguous to the Swan River. Many people will agree that some of the conclusions of Captain Gilbert were coloured and were therefore hardly to be relied on. The gentlemen who subsequently petitioned the English Government to found a colony in the West were wholly influenced by the information contained in these reports, while the Government itself was partly led to conclusion by them. The opinions of an experienced man like Mr. Fraser carried much weight. He was, if anything, more sanguine of the potentialities of the Swan River country than Captain Gilbert, and he expressed himself in no measured terms as to its fertility. His report embraces the "botany, geology, and general character of the banks of Swan River, Geographe Bay, and Cape Naturaliste."

The mouth of the Swan, he wrote, was composed of tessellated rocks of lime, presenting in many places caverns of the most fantastic forms. He believed the whole mass to be the remains of an extensive bed of fossil rocks, exhibiting trunks and roots of enormous trees. The soil on the south head was a sterile sand which produced a great variety of interesting plants. The banks half a mile from the heads were apparently barren, but really contained a fine red loam, with about a quarter of sand, capable of producing garden and other light crops. Further in, the "livid green" of the trees on the banks greatly astonished him, and on examination he found this was due to the immense body of moisture which was supplied by underground springs. Although the season had evidently been a dry one, the verdure of the trees, and "astonishing luxuriance" of the herbaceous plants, exceeded anything he had seen on the east coast. Among these plants were species of tenicis and hibiscus. Springs were numerous, and one rapid stream issuing from a cavernous rock contained water of a saline quality but different in taste from sea water. An analysis of this, made at Port Jackson, showed it to correspond to the water of Harrowgate. The banks at this spot exceeded in beauty anything so near the sea in Sydney. On the north head of the river the soil was sandy, but 200 yards from the beach it became a rich brown loam, which improved in quality as the hills were ascended. The valleys were rich beyond description and capable of producing any crop. The same character of soil continued to Pelican Point, and as far as the eye could reach beyond there.

"The limestone with which the valleys are studded renders them admirably adapted to the culture of the vine, and their being divested of timber or brushwood renders them fit for immediate culture."