Page:History of West Australia.djvu/47

 Rh The Success sailed on alone, and on the 4th March Cape Leeuwin was weathered. Next day the vessel arrived off Rottnest Island, which some earlier navigators described as a terrestrial paradise, but which Captain Gilbert considered hopelessly barren, with not the slightest inducement for anyone to settle. Instead of a scene of umbrageous beauty which he looked for, he was disappointed to observe naught but an island of sand covered with brushwood. On March 6th the Success sailed towards the Swan River, and came to anchor about three miles off the mouth. The sandbanks effectually hid the view of inland country. A boat's crew was lowered and sent to inspect the entrance. They returned with an unfavourable report. A bar of sand and rocks mutely denied a passage to large ships, and there was scarcely sufficient water for a boat to pass safely over. Immediately beyond this bar they said they found from four to ten fathoms of water. In the river were numerous black swans, which made a strange picture as they sailed in stately dignity over the glassy surface, with a background of glistening patches of sand and dark—foliaged vegetation. The men shot some of them and took them to the ship. They were described as about the size of the white swan, but quite black except for the whiteness of the quill feathers at the tip of the wings. For eating they were thought to be rather gross.

On the following day the Success was moored to Berthollet Island, which swarmed with sea-birds, and was covered with holes, resembling rabbit warrens, they had made. Otherwise it was "a mass of land intersected here and there with brushwood." At eight o’clock next morning the gig and cutter set out to explore the Swan River. The crews were well armed, and carried a fortnight's provisions. Now were the real objects of the expedition to be carried out—

"To proceed if possible to the source of the river—to examine the banks and the depth of water—to fix on an eligible spot for a settlement—to ascertain the productions of the country, the nature of the soil, and the practicability of forming a harbour for shipping."

These couriers of civilisation went along the river's sinuous way, each turn opening to a sweet rural prospect, and discovering in wide expanse of water, or gentle verdure-clad hill, or many-coloured vegetation, some new pleasing feature. Good progress was made on the first day, and "about 20 miles of the river" were examined. Then they were confronted by "flats that here extended themselves the whole width of the river, one and a half miles in length." These flats were certainly those contiguous to the present causeway above Perth, and the estimate of distance is decidedly erroneous by nearly seven miles too much. The provisions were now landed on an island, and the empty boats were dragged over the muddy shallow passages. In doing this the men were compelled to walk across extensive beds of oyster shells, which severely lacerated their feet. Immediately beyond, deep water of nearly eight fathoms was found, and nothing further arose to impede their progress. And now, Gilbert asserts, "the scenery was delightful, the trees growing to the water's edge. The transparency of the river, the mountains and plains alternately appearing, and the picturesque points and bays formed the most interesting scenery possible, and this place only requires a little assistance from art to render it one of the most delightful spots on earth." On Sunday two native children were seen playing on the shore, who ran off in consternation when they perceived the boats. In a few minutes about 200 natives were observed peering from behind the trees and over the hill-tops. The boats continued on their way, and the natives kept pace with them. In the hands of the aboriginal men were spears. They apparently wished the explorers to land, for they beckoned to them constantly. After a time the boats' crews put on shore, and then all the natives retreated towards a hill except five rather elderly men. These laid down their spears, and made signs of friendship by holding their arms above their heads. The third lieutenant, Mr. Belches, went out to meet them, but when a second man followed the officer the natives took alarm, seized their spears, and would have fled had not the man instantly retired to the boat. Signs of peace were made by Lieutenant Belches, and after presents were awarded to them the aboriginals became more familiar. They particularly relished the bread and the sugar which were given them, but the salt beef was not agreeable to their palate.

Captain Gilbert reported that these natives were rather intelligent in appearance, and were small made. The chiefs were painted with a sort of red clay, and twisted their long hair round their heads, binding it with the feathers of the cockatoo and swan. Their ears were also pierced by feathers, and the septum of the nose contained a single quill feather. He gave a considerable description of their habits and weapons.

A point near the base of the hills was reached on the Monday. Trees here so overhung the stream that it was impossible for them to sail. The mast was unshipped and the boat was pulled the remaining distance. The party camped for nearly two days, and passed the time in examining the country. Swans and ducks were shot for food, and Mr. Fraser made a large collection of plants, and also ascended the General Darling Ranges, named after the Governor of New South Wales. On Wednesday the return journey was begun, but the boats had not gone far before they were staved by the stumps of trees that had fallen into the river. The damage was repaired and the flats were reached. While the cutter sailed direct to the ship, the gig was ordered to proceed up "another of the rivers"—the Canning. They found five fathoms of water along their course in the Canning. Another party of natives was met with who displayed more timidity than the first. It was only after a long interval that any communication could be had with them. But when many signs and tokens of friendship were made one of the crew landed and presented to the chief a jacket, and to another a pair of trousers. It was ludicrous to observe the efforts of the latter to place the trousers over his shoulders by thrusting his arms through the openings for the legs. After a while the timidity of the natives was overcome so far by their curiosity that they rubbed their fingers on the white skins of the crew to see if a pigment would come off, apparently believing them painted. They opened the waistcoats of the men and laughed loudly when they saw that the skin of their bodies was also white. Other presents were made and several spears were given to the whites, and all parted the best of friends. The country pleased the explorers greatly, and they believed it so fertile that they pictured these primal scenes as soon to be inhabited by thousands of opulent husbandmen.

Some time was then spent in surveying the islands of Rottnest, Berthollet (Carnac), and Buachi (Garden Island), the adjacent rocks, and the coast on each side of the river. Two gardens were planted about fifteen miles up the river—which so far as is known were never again seen—and another at Buachi. Several descriptions of garden vegetables and corn were sown in these. On Buachi a cow, three goats, and three sheep with young were left. Captain Gilbert proceeds:—

"Our expectations of the advantages of a settlement at Swan River are now fully confirmed, and although it would be impossible for vessels of above 10 tons burden to enter the river at any state of the tide in safety at the present entrance, it would be practicable at a small expense to cut a canal. . . . . The distance necessary to be cut is only one quarter of a mile, and would immediately lead into water of twelve fathoms, both in the river and in the sea. The land is rocky, and would afford excellent