Page:History of West Australia.djvu/190

 148

and as it was dry they proceeded to cross it to the northward. They had not gone far, however, before the hard crust of gypsum and salt suddenly gave way, and three horses simultaneously sank into a bog, vainly struggling for release. The Gregorys went to the shore, constructed hurdles out of small trees, and by wearying exertion for six consecutive hours got the animals on hard ground.

Desolate plains were crossed to the north, and the Irwin River, discovered by Grey, was reached. Following the channel for some distance, they observed great sandstone cliffs, eighty to one hundred feet high, jutting over its bed. At their base, and in the track of the Irwin, east by south of Champion Bay, they reported discovering two seams of coal, five to six feet thick, and small detached pieces burnt in a rich flame. After obtaining specimens they journeyed to the coast, and turned southwards on the homeward journey. They crossed the Arrowsmith and Moore Rivers, and arrived at Bolgart Spring on 22nd September. During their journey the Messrs. Gregory travelled 953 miles.

The report of this expedition—especially that part relating to the discovery of coal—excited colonists, and as soon as possible the Government despatched another party to confirm the interesting news. Lieutenant Helpman, the commander of the schooner Champion, sailed to Champion Bay in his boat, accompanied by one of the Gregorys. On 6th December, 1846, the anchor was dropped, and the men landed horses and a cart for the journey to the Irwin. Next day they set in motion, and traversed wretched country. The scene of the discovery was reached on 12th December, and 3 cwt. of coal was dug out at a depth of four feet, and conveyed to the ship. Mr. Gregory led some of the party to the Hutt River. Lieutenant Helpman announced that the coal could be got to Champion Bay with little difficulty, where, he believed, was a fair anchorage during winter months.

Exploration again relaxed for a period. The next to go out was Surveyor-General Roe. On 10th July, 1847, he left Champion Bay, and examined the rivers Hutt, Bowes, and Buller, and much neighbouring country. Dr. Von Sommer, who accompanied him, scrutinised the likely places for coal. Mr. Roe reported favourably on the nature of the land, small parts of which were suitable for agriculture, and a large proportion for pastoral pursuits.

No more expeditions went out until September, 1848. Newspapers and Legislative Councillors complained often of the lack of interest in discovery, till the Government and private people were influenced to equip parties. On 2nd September, 1848, Mr. A. C. Gregory took charge of a band, consisting of Messrs. L. Burges, Walcott, Bidart, and a soldier. The leader was instructed to proceed to the Gascoyne River. About 1,500 miles were traversed, the furthest point northwards being 350 miles from Perth. Good country was discovered on the Bowes, Murchison, and Buller Rivers, and indications of coal and minerals were found. Splendid tracts of grazing land were observed contiguous to the rivers, and, as soon as Perth was reached, one of the pastoralists applied for land on the Murchison.

So delighted were the settlers and leading people by these discoveries, that Governor Fitzgerald, with Messrs. Bland and A. C. Gregory, three soldiers, and a servant lad visited them. They proceeded on horses to Bowes River, and after inspecting the country, started, on 11th December, 1848, to return to Champion Bay. When pushing through thickets, under rocky hills, some twenty miles from the Bay, they were surrounded by several natives. Every moment the number of blacks increased, and eventually they drew closer to the party, threatening them with spears. A few weapons were thrown, whereupon Governor Fitzgerald shot one native, and the soldiers fired a volley. Natives on the hills hurled spears down at them, one of which struck the Governor just above the knee, passed through the thigh, and stuck there, the point protruding about twelve inches. Had he not observed the weapon approaching, and stepped forward, he would have received it in his back. Spears continued to fall from the hill-tops and surrounding thickets, until the party succeeded in reaching open ground. Some fifty or sixty natives followed them to Champion Bay, which was reached after an exhausting journey of ten hours' duration. Governor Fitzgerald recovered from his wound soon after his return to Perth, and an address of congratulation for his providential escape was presented to him. Some three natives were believed to have been killed.

That redoubtable navigator and explorer, Lieutenant J. S. Roe, started on an important expedition over the sand drifts and rugged hills of the south-east in 1848. His party reckoned Messrs Gregory and Ridley, Privates Lee and Buck of the 96th, and a native named Bob. Dr. Von Sommer had suggested that the country was worth a careful examination for coal deposits. The indefatigable botanist, Mr. Drummond, had also exploited these regions for choice specimens. Lieutenant Roe was instructed to explore the country between Cape Riche and Russell Range, discovered and named by Eyre, east of Esperance Bay, and to specially search for coal.

On 8th September, 1848, the men left Perth with eleven horses. Before their return, 149 days later, they traversed nearly 1,800 miles of country, obtained useful geographical knowledge, and reported the discovery of extensive coal deposits. They proceeded through the settled and semi-settled districts to Cape Riche, where, at the residence of Mr. Cheyne, the first settler there, they rested their horses and prepared for the more serious exploration. On their way they examined new country, but none of great importance. The bounds of settlement left, their subsequent way was difficult and tedious. They penetrated dreadful regions, rocky, rugged, uninviting. Throughout a journey occupying 86 days from Cape Riche to Russell Range and back, their horses suffered seriously from privation. At first Mr. Roe went N.W., and examined the Pallinup River, the broad grassy valley of Teeramungup; samphire and rush streams, numerous salt lakes, limited stretches of good grazing land, and dreary wastes, where close thickets were the predominating feature. He named Mount Madden (after the Colonial Secretary), Mount Short (Bishop Short), Bremer Range (a naval officer), Mount Gordon, Fitzgerald Peaks (the Governor), Mount Charles, Mount Eleanora, Mount Ridley (a companion), and Mount Ney (a favourite horse). Parched stages were made, containing neither grass nor water. The horses famished, and frequent rests were taken. Frowning seas of scrub supplied a dreadful interest, and once or twice the men narrowly escaped entanglement in a series of salt lakes and unbearable thickets. Near Russell Range the outlook was no better. Finally, from a hill, Roe described, "at the distance only of four miles, the precipitous mass of rock composing the Russell Range, rising abruptly in a bare naked mass to the height of 600 feet out of the surrounding scrubby plains, and not a blade of grass or the least appearance of fresh water were anywhere to be seen." Thickets and