Page:History of West Australia.djvu/159

Rh have in one thing proved themselves superior to the Egyptian and the Etruscan, whose marks have elicited so much admiration, and afforded food to so many speculations—namely, there is not in them to be observed the slightest trace of indecency."

The neighbouring islands and waters were surveyed, Breaker and Oyster Inlets were named, and in July the Beagle went up to Timor. After supplies were obtained, she returned to the north-west coast at Dampier's Archipelago, where the dreary, sterile country repelled the navigators. On the 27th September the Beagle anchored at the east end of Rottnest Island. More beacons were erected on rocks there. Swan River was left on 25th October, and the Beagle proceeded to King George's Sound, and from thence to Sydney.

She subsequently made surveys in the Gulf of Carpentaria, visited the Indian Archipelago, and returned to Port Essington. Thence Timor was made, and the north-west coast was cursorily visited, and Swan River was reached in November, 1841. Much comment was circulating concerning the locality of Champion Bay, because of a map published by Mr. Arrowsmith, the hydrographer, of Grey's explorations, and because of reports of the fertility of the surrounding country published by the Western Australian Company (Australind) upon statements made by Grey.

Mr. M. W. Clifton requested Captain Stokes to make another examination of the bay and country, and he complied, taking Mr. Clifton with him. Upon his return Stokes sailed down to Koombanah Bay, and round the coast to Sydney.

A voyage was made to Tasmania and other places, and in April, 1843, the Beagle paid her final visit to Fremantle. By this time the lighthouse on Rottnest Island had been erected by natives imprisoned on the island. On the evening of 6th May, 1843, the Beagle sailed from Swan River. The officers were presented with a letter of thanks from Governor Hutt and the Legislative Council testifying the services they had rendered the colony. Two excellent volumes written by Captain Stokes indicate the splendid work conducted on the Beagle during these years.

An exploring feat of paramount importance to geographical science, and to Australian settlement, was performed in 1841. John Eyre traversed the country between settlement in South Australia and Western Australia, and bridged a tract of unknown territory, which had hitherto occasioned general speculation. Regions were penetrated under circumstances of extreme difficulty, which stimulated the emulation and commanded the respect of energetic men throughout Australia. Eyre was an illustrious member of a line of brave explorers, who knowingly took life in their hands as courageously, and under less inspiring conditions, as did ever bold British warrior. He continued the bloodless fight of the gloomy Australian deserts and wildernesses, and by the force of physical endurance and mental hardihood, surmounted sullen, lifeless obstacles which would have daunted less determined men. It would be a dereliction of duty due to the dead not to place him among the world's most determined explorers. At the expense of intense pain and tragic anxiety, he proved the fallacy of the belief of those geographers, beginning with Dampier, who conjectured that a considerable waterway bisected Australia from north to south. By his journey, Australia was completely penetrated near the coast from east to west.

In 1840 correspondence took place between gentlemen in South Australia and Western Australia, in which the former requested Messrs. Roe, Moore, and Leake to co-operate with them in encouraging the exploration of a route for overland communication. Were a practicable route discovered, they affirmed, trade between the two colonies might be profitably carried on in live stock and other products by land transit. Moreover, geographical science must receive valuable accessions from the successful exploration of such a large tract of unknown country. One outcome of this correspondence, and the general interest it excited, was the determination come to by John Eyre to cross the border. Colonel Gawler, the Governor of South Australia, tried to dissuade him from such a dangerous enterprise, but Eyre was inflexible, and announced his intention to keep to the southern coast. He was then at Fowler's Bay, after having explored Lake Torrens, and the home of misery and hopelessness stretching from there on every side. Then he went to Fowler's Bay. Three times did Eyre attempt to round the Great Australian Bight, and twice he was driven back by want of water and food for the horses. On the other occasion he penetrated some fifty miles beyond the head of the Bight, but three of his best horses perished, and he returned to Fowler's Bay. He now determined to reduce the size of his party, which included six Europeans, and prepared to go forth on one of the boldest enterprises that it is possible to imagine.

The charter of his cutter—the Hero—which lay at Fowler's Bay with provisions, did not extend beyond the South Australian boundary, and Eyre had to send her back to Port Adelaide. In January, 1841, the cutter departed, and the brave fighter of the wilderness and his little band were left alone face to face with an undertaking which might well strike cold fear to their hearts. On a previous excursion Eyre traversed country, beyond which natives informed him was no water for a ten days' march. Desolation and hunger reigned supreme, and 800 miles of solitude lay before him. The band consisted of one European—Baxter, who had for some time been in Eyres' employ as an overseer or factotum—and three natives, including Wylie, who is reputed to have been a King George's Sound native. Ten horses, and nine weeks' provisions, including a few sheep, completed the equipment. A few weeks' rest was taken to recuperate, and gather up strength for the tremendous journey. On 24th February, just as Eyre was ready to set out, the Hero returned from Port Adelaide, conveying Governor Gawler's earnest solicitations that the expedition should be abandoned, as the risks were too great and insuperable. But Eyre remained undaunted, and next day he raised his camp.

The first part of the journey over country already traversed was easily accomplished, and then Eyre, Baxter, and the three blacks entered on the waterless tract mentioned by the natives. The story of suffering, tragedy, and horror began. For six days they travelled over the weary waste without water. The horses were jaded and spiritless, the black men sullen and discontented, knowing well what was before them. Then water was found in a native well. It was with the utmost difficulty that the horses could be got to travel. Before them now were 600 miles of unknown dangers, at the rear that terrible six days' march, and what lay beyond.

The natives lost heart and ran away. They were without food, and at last hunger compelled them to return to Eyre and the miserable camp fare. Baxter became low-spirited, and dreaded the future. Eyre alone, with true British courage and