Page:Fancy dresses described, or, What to wear at fancy balls (1887).djvu/67

 CATHERINE DE MEDICI. Ample skirt of velvet or rich brocade, just touching the ground, distended with hoops, satin front breadth, jewelled bands of gold across. Bodice pointed at waist, seams defined with jewels; low stiff ruff on wire foundation from shoulders. Sleeves to wrist in perpendicular puffings, full at top, and cuff turning upwards; over these, gossamer sleeves from shoulders to hem of dress. Hair turned off face in roll; diamond crown or coif after Marie Stuart order, but not so pointed. Shoes broad-toed, sewn with pearls. Yellow, red, and black favourite colours, and rich arabesque brocades worn.

CATHERINE HOWARD. Dress of same period as Catherine of Arragon (see below), rendered in brighter colouring; generally of rich flowered brocade; the cap round, and not so hood-like, showing more hair, or replaced by diamond tiara. Train of velvet trimmed with pearls. Fur admissible. The sleeve is distinctive; tight at the shoulder, with wide border of fur reaching almost to the knees; under sleeve slashed and puffed to the waist, bounded by a ruffle. The richly-wrought petticoat embroidered in cloth of gold. The sleeves at this period were movable and distinct from dress.

CATHERINE OF ARRAGON. Dark velvet robe, bordered with ermine, displaying satin or cloth of gold, front breadth trimmed with pearls or rich embroidery. A low, square, stay-like bodice to waist, with jewelled girdle; broidered stomacher with jewels. A satin habit-shirt, or partlet, worked with gold and pearls, tight under-sleeves to match; pendant velvet sleeves, lined with ermine. Black velvet hood, with triple-jewelled front; gauze veil at back. Pointed velvet shoes, slashed. The richest materials may be used, as well as black velvet and white satin. A sprig of lavender carried in the hand. Leslie painted the queen after her divorce wearing a dress of dark green velvet or silk, shot with gold, the bodice cut square and low, trimmed with a deep bordering of black velvet, covering in front a third of the bodice, fastened with jewels, attached to this a jewelled pendant and chain; white muslin apron; the sleeves full, sewn into a piece at the wrist, fitting the arm, opening on the outside with jewelled links; the hair dressed plain to the face, a velvet head-dress rounded at the ears and falling at the back in heavy folds.

CATHERINE OF RUSSIA (as worn by Baroness