Page:Fancy dresses described, or, What to wear at fancy balls (1887).djvu/201

 glasses, sticks, and quaint hats stuck on the head anyhow, with trimmings protruding in all directions. The turned-down collar and the revers were also copied, as well as the dangling watches and charms. Underclothing was almost dispensed with, as well as all substantial stuffs; only muslin, organdy, tarlatane, gauze, and sometimes, but seldom, taffetas, composed the narrow dresses, which were often embroidered with chain-stitch, and, for evening wear, with gold and spangles, when the robes a l'Athénne were frequently opened at the side and caught up with jewels or bouquets of artificial flowers, just then beginning to re-appear. Quite a study was required to gracefully slip the train in the belt or throw it over the arm. The short spencer, or canezou was cut extremely low for all occasions, hence the necessity of always carrying a scarf ready to be thrown over the shoulders when required. Row's of Roman pearls and long gloves covered the bare arms, and the feet were encased in tiny slippers, strapped round the ankles with coloured ribbons. Like powder, rouge had been abandoned, and blonde was the colour obligatory for the hair. The following could be worn: Narrow skirt of white muslin, or mousseline de laine, ornamented with chain or satin stich; baby bodice with sash tied at the side supporting a bouquet; embroidered silk mittens; reticule of plush; large hat with soft crown and plume of feathers. Or, kilted skirt of chaudron nun's cloth, scalloped at edged and spotted with gold at every scallop; pointed panel and scarf in bengaline; plastron scarf and left side panel in blue taffetas, the two latter richly embroidered; habit bodice with long tails of pale blue satin, striped with chaudron velvet; stomacher and charm-holder of brown velvet; facings of brown corded silk; silk muslin tie, fastened below the chin in a huge bow; roses and aigrette in the felt hat and on the shoulder. Skirt of fine cream muslin slightly looped up on one side to show the foot in its satin sandalled shoe of a colour matching the Directoire coat, of pale pink satin lined with coloured silk and with large revers and cuffs of same colour. The coat cut in a low V at the throat, and filled in with an enormous jabot of soft creamy lace pinned with one or two diamond brooches; bows of different coloured ribbons forming shoulder knots; the dress completed by large white felt hat turned up in front and adorned with pink and olive feathers; diamond clasp; long cream buttonless gloves, and pink and olive reticule on arm. Or, long skirt of nun's veiling,