Page:Fancy dresses described, or, What to wear at fancy balls (1887).djvu/148

 '''HENRY III. OF FRANCE.''' Period of (1574). Dress of period, old gold broche; under-dress of old gold guipure; the bodice pointed, fastened with large, pearls; farthingale round hips lined with ruby satin; over-dress meeting bodice like a cuirass of diamonds and rubies; rows of pearls round neck.

HENRY IV. Period of (1399-1413). The cote Hardie flowing skirts fitting close to hips; soft turban head-dresses were the leading features. For example, long skirt of pink cashmere; grey bodice, trimmed with fur, forming a stomacher or surcote; tight grey sleeves; turn-down collar; huge reticulated head-dress of pink and white muslin, with veil. These head-dresses met with much ridicule; the women were compared by satirists to horned snails, harts, and unicorns; slit coats showing the under-dress through the apertures, and the sideless gowns, were also objects of popular derision.

HENRY V. Period of (1413-1422). In this reign the horned head-dress assumed enormous proportions, great horns were added to the cauls, with the veils stretched to their fullest extent; the waist of dresses became short, and the sleeves covered the hands.

HENRY VI. Period of (1422-1461). The trains grew longer, and were tightly girdled; turn-down collars, of fur or velvet, came to a point over a distinctive stomacher; horned head-dresses still worn; turbans were carried up in a peak over the face. The Hennin, from Flanders, was in vogue, made of muslin with horns, ornamented with precious stones.

HENRY VII. Period of (1485-1509). This period was illustrated in the Health Exhibition as follows: Maid Servant, from picture at Oberwesel: Grey cashmere skirt, bound with white, edged with black; bodice to waist, cut low in front, outlined with a band of white edged with black; white chemisette, showing close horizontal plaits; white turban-like head-dress, black braided star in front. And a costume from the tapestry at Orleans: Brown under-dress and bodice with the belt and skirt trimmed with white; the other robe loose and distinct, with turnback collar; over-dress brown, and reddish leather colour; printed velvet, bordered with a strip of white; sleeve in one puff to elbow, and then tight to wrist; cap like a turban in the two shades of the dress.

HENRY VIII. Period of (1509-1547). (See ; ; ; ; ; ). Lady of