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 308 the country in more than one direction, and has rendered accessible its most romantic scenery, while opening up its varied and valuable productions.

The district of Uruapan has become famous for its exquisite lacquered ware bearing the same name, and which has received gold prizes at the Philadelphia, Vienna, and Paris Expositions. The finest specimens of the work yet exhibited, strange to relate, have been executed by two or three families. As explained to me by one of the workers in the market of Morelia, simple old-fashioned gourds, generally cut into plaques, are used as the basis of operations. They first apply some neutral tint as the groundwork, after which the artist, with an ordinary pocket-knife, makes the design in either fruit or flowers—perhaps after the order of an engraver on wood—and then, little by little, the colors are deftly put into these indentures by the fingers, time being allowed for each to become entirely dry before adding another. These paints are prepared by the Indians themselves from the native dye-woods, and as a variety of colors is used in the process, much time is expended in making this wonderful ware. Not the least important in the various processes employed, is that of rubbing, when thoroughly dry, the entire picture with a curious admixture of oily substances, of which the ordinary caterpillar is the principal. But there is good sense, and reason as well, in resorting to so obnoxious a thing as a caterpillar, for it completes an object that is not only one of great utility, resisting alike grease and water, but also gives a ware that is to the last, even when worn into shreds, an article of fadeless beauty.

In the State of Michoacán there is the most picturesque lake in the republic. Since my visit there the railway has reached its shores, rudely awakening it from the slumber of ages. Humboldt visited Pátzcuaro, and speaks of the lake as rivaling the world-famed Lake of Geneva. Even in this land of grand and romantic scenery it stands alone in its exceeding loveliness. A pleasure boat has been recently launched upon its limpid waters for the recreation of health-seekers and tourists. The town of Pátzcuaro supplies good accommodations