Page:Expeditions of Discovery in South Australia (IA jstor-1798142).pdf/6

 Before, however, I commenced our return, I determined to examine the country more immediately on the west side of the Gulf, though I had little hopes, from its appearance, of obtaining water in that direction; accordingly I proceeded on foot, accompanied by my overseer, about 35 miles from the depôt round the head of the Gulf. We found the land high and flat-topped, gradually declining to the south, and broken by deep gorges into portions resembling hills. The soil was soft sandy red loam, greatly mixed with stones, with here and there a little old withered grass. We could see no timber of any kind but patches of scrubby bushes and a few small pines, but not the least indication of water, and as the country before us bore the same character as that we had traversed, we were under the necessity of returning, and giving up the attempt as impracticable at so unfavourable a season as the present. In our route up the Gulf we had seen very few natives, and those were timid and alarmed at our presence; but to judge from the many and well-beaten tracks leading up the hills to the water, and the numerous fires we saw among the hills at night, I should imagine there were a considerable number in that neighbourhood. We found a singular practice prevail among them here of covering up the springs and water-holes (where there was more than one hole) very thickly with the boughs and branches of trees, as if to protect it from the rays of the sun—a circumstance I had never observed elsewhere, and which would lead me to suppose that they suffer from the scarcity of water in the dry seasons. On the western side of the Gulf we could never see the tracks or fires of the natives in any direction, though we were travelling for a great distance so near the eastern side as to have distinguished fires across the water on the other side had there been any.

"After returning on my outward track as far as 33° 18', I struck out more to the eastward, making for the north-west angle of the Murray river as the nature of the country and supply of water enabled me to proceed. In my progress I was obliged to go further S. than I intended, and passed through a considerable extent of very fine country, and tolerably well watered, to the hills separating the country to the westward from the course of the Murray. From these hills I found a passage to the river, shorter and better as a route to Adelaide than the one in present use, and communicating at once with the unlocated country to the N. and N.W. I struck the river in 34° 16', and followed it down to its entrance into the lake. In my progress I examined the alluvial flats in the valley, and have much pleasure in adding my humble testimony to the opinion long ago expressed by Capt. Sturt, of the great extent and rich character of the land they contain, and though nearly all are more or less covered with reeds and are partially subject to inundation, I consider this portion of land to be as rich and valuable as any I have seen, and I have only felt surprise that so few have thought it worth their while to examine the land bordering on such a noble river. After leaving the lake, I found a good pass through the ranges about 15 miles to the southward of Adelaide, and returned to town on the morning of the 29th June."

2. Excursion from Port Lincoln to Streaky Bay, and thence to the head of Spencer's Gulf.—"I left Port Lincoln with my party (consisting of three men, an overseer, and two native boys), on the 5th of August,