Page:Every Woman's Encyclopedia Volume 1.djvu/99

 8i DRE88 brow. This will make a delightful contrast to the vivid locks beneath. Furthermore, let her drape the crown of her hat with masses of black tulle, and group on one side of it three or four long black ostrich feathers. The whole effect will be delightful, and, if she will refrain from the introduction even of a white osprey or a pale cream rose, it shall be counted to her for further righteousness. Brilliant auburn hair, however, even at the present time, is very rare, unless — low let it be spoken — it is assisted liberally with henna. The woman who possesses such hair, however, should first choose black, but there are soft shades of grey and tender blues in which she may also revel. White garments are fairly safe, but all tones of rose, pink, crimson, bright violet, or vivid green should carefully be avoided. FLOWER SCHEMES The modern elegante, seeking inspiration for the colour of her gowns, might do worse than adopt a flower scheme for her afternoon frocks. Let her take some decorative blossom — for example, the purple iris — and work out a complete toilette. The gown can be carried out in shades of pale lilac and deep violet, and a hint of pearl grey suggested in the frou frou of a satin petticoat. Filmy laces, ivory-white, can deck the throat and wrists, and a pale lilac hat can be worn, trimmed only with dark violet velvet iris. For a brunette the varying tones of wallflowers are excellent in in- spiring a becoming day or evening gown. Rich browns, with here and there a fleck of orange or bright yellow, will be found har- monious and becoming, while to complete the realism, a knot of soft grey-green should not be omitted, for the leaves and stalks of wallflowers play an important part in the charm of this richly perfumed plant. The Frenchwoman, to whom nothing con- nected with the subtlety of dress is unim- portant, has long ago adopted the plan of using a perfume suitable to the costume. When she dons a heUotrope-coloured dress, then does she use the sweet "cherry-pie" scent; when in white, lily blossom perfume; with dark violet, violette de parme is used ; and so on throughout the gamut of colour and perfume. The tall, fair woman might find inspiration in the lily of the valley, with its fresh, cool contrast of white and green, or in the delicate pink of the briar rose. In the spring- time, the pale gold of the laburnum com- mends itself to dark and fair alike ; the deep purple of the wood violet or the delicate mauve of the lilac blossom, which always is emphasised and rendered more attractive by those touches of leaf-green which Nature herself indicates as the one means of bringing into harmony all the tints of all the flowers that grow. For autumn gowns, again, what finer inspiration is there for modiste or milliner alike than the brilliant crimson and the russet browns of the woodland foliage ; than all the wonderful gradations of gold and bronze which shine out upon us from the October trees and from the creepers which fling their gorgeous mantles far and wide ? In fur-trimmed velvets there are no colours lovelier than those which are borrowed from the autumn leaves. THE VALUE OP CONTRAST Under our grey English skies flashes of bright colour come as a welcome relief, and should do much to lighten the gloom of dark November days. As a nation we are a little too much inclined to be afraid of vivid tints. We take our pleasures sadly, and are disposed to echo in our garments the dull, dark tones which too often seem part and parcel of our English atmosphere. To break away from this tradition is to benefit our fellow-creatures, and the woman who is hesitating between Quaker-grey and a brilliant shade of crimson for a winter walking-gown, will do well to choose the latter, for she will be doing something towards lightening the dulness of our streets. NATURE SCHEMES Skies at sunrise and sunset give many an inspiration for day-gowns in delicate tones of pink and grey, and for evening frocks too, where misty veilings of tulle and chiffon are draped so that a deeper tone shines out from an under-robe of satin. Suggestions also may be found of crimson, gold, or purple fading into lilac, of ruby melting into palest sapphire ; vague evanes- cent colourings as fugitive and beautiful as the wide bars of light drawn at sunset across the western sky. For tea-gowns and for evening frocks there are possibilities in all the wonderful blues and greens of the sea, and those mysterious tints which glitter on the track painted by the moonlight upon the surface of the water, or, again, in the purples which the cloud shadows leave as the sunlight chases them over the hills. All these colours afford schemes worthy of consideration, especially if we are able to use those many lovely tissues in silver and gold which are interwoven with threads of sea- green and of sapphire blue. These veilings can be draped again with ivory-white silk net, so fine as to be visible only in its softening effect upon the colouring of the other fabrics. WHITE AND ITS POSSIBILITIES Although, technically speaking, white implies an absence of colour, many delightful possibilities are afforded by its lovely sug- gestions of pearl and snow and ivory. The bride looks her best in her white wedding- gown. The foUowing are good finns for supplying materials mentioned in this Section : Messrs. Burberry's (Weatherproof Coats). Dean s Rag Book Co.. Ltd. (Publishers). Hanan-Gingell Shoe Co., Ltd. (Footwear). Horrockses (Longcloths and Sheetings), Klcinert Depot (Hose Supporters . Dr Lahniann (Cottonwool Underwear). London Glove Co. (GloyesJ, Lutas Leathley & Co. (Dress Fabrics), Sandow's Corset Co. (Corsets).