Page:Every Woman's Encyclopedia Volume 1.djvu/93

 To tailor tack a seam, place the two halves of the garment flat on the table — exactly one over the other — the one which has been marked with chalk for the seams uppermost. Thread a needle with a long, double length of tacldng cotton, but do not make a knot at the end. Tack exactly on the chalk line right through the two materials (thus sewing them together), take up only a small amount of material on the needle, leave a long, loose stitch ; repeat these alternate small and long, loose stitches all along the chalked line. When this has been done, draw the two pieces of material slightly apart, and cut the stitches between them, but without drawing any of the threads out of either of the two pieces of the material. The scissors to cut these stitches must be sharp ; short scissors are more convenient than long ones, and there is less risk of snipping the material w^th them Stitching and Machine Stitching These are used for joining seams, orna- mental work, etc. Felling Felling is a stitch used by tailors in place of hemming (as it does not show so much, and is less likely to pucker), for putting linings into coats, sewing on collars, facing re vers, etc. The work is held in exactly the opposite direction to that in which it is in hemming, and the stitch is shorter and straighter. Fine silk should be used for felling. Oversewing This stitch is used for sewing over the raw edges of buttonholes, etc. (before working them), when the material is one likely to fray, such as serge. Padding In tailoring, padding is a stitch used in collars and revers of coats to make them roll. It is done with rather fine silk to match the cloth. Instructions for working this stitch will be given in a lesson on the making of a coat-collar and revers. Buttonhole Stitch Tailor's buttonholes are worked in ex- actly the opposite direction to a dress- maker's — i.e. from right to left, instead of from left to right. The method of pre- paring and working tailor's buttonholes will be given in a future lesson. Stoating and Rantering These stitches are used for invisible joins in cloth. Stoating is done by placing the two 75 DRESS Eieces of material to be joined flat on a oard or table, with the wrong side upper- most — the edges having been cut perfectly even that they may exactly meet. Use a length of fine silk to match the cloth, and a fine needle ; draw the two raw edges together by working over and over through half the thickness of the cloth; this should form a row of straight stitches across the join, on the wrong side (which is uppermost), and no stitches should show on the under or right side. The stitches should be made rather close together. N.B. It is a good plan to make chalk marks across the two raw edges, to ensure their being kept evenly together whilst working, so that neither side is puckered. Rantering The two edges of the cloth which are to be joined should be put together, the right side of each piece facing, and level, as for a seam. Neatly backstitch them together by hand, as close to the edges as possible. This stitching should never be done by machine, as the line of stitches would be too straight and the join more visible. The work must now be turned right over, so that the wrong side of each piece will be facing the other. Roll the edge firmly with the thumb and first finger of the left hand, to get the stitches as near the surface as possible, and, whilst holding it firmly in this position, pass a fine needle (threaded with f>ne silk to match the cloth) in a slanting direction, just under the surface of the cloth, from one rolled edge to the other ; bring the needle out on the right side, and in working the next stitch put it back again in the same place at which it was brought out, as no stitch must appear on the right side. Rantering is worked from right to left; it should form a darn of slanting, invisible stitches, joining the two rolled edges to- gether. The seam must be constantly rolled whilst working, to get the stitches as near as possible to the surface. When the work is finished open out the seam, and slightly fray the surface of the cloth on the right side with the point of the needle across the join ; damp and press the work well on the wrong side. A join properly rantered is all but in- visible. Fine Drawing This stitch is used for the invisible re- pairing of rents and accidental cuts in cloth. If the rent is a long one, it is a good plan to tack it right side uppermost (the raw edges close together) on to a piece of stiff, smooth paper or American cloth, and to make chalk lines across the two edges of the rent, or cut, as a guide to keep them level while the work is being done. The first practical lesson in tailoring will be given in Part 2 of Every Woman's Encyclopaedia