Page:Every Woman's Encyclopedia Volume 1.djvu/92

 DRESS 74 Either a single or a double board ; if double, it should be a fixed, and not a folding board, as the latter is not firm enough for pressing tailor-made garments. Sleeve boards can be obtained, the price- for a single one being from is. 6d., according to the size, and for a double one, from 3s. gd. Only a small size is needed for ladies' tailoring. Skirt Board This is used for tacking and for pressing the seams of skirts, etc.; it can be had for about 4s. 6d. A Sewing Machine (lockstitch) A Dress Stand A stand, padded to about nine inches below the waist-line, is the most useful for fitting on and moulding the bodice or coat. A dress stand can be purchased in stock sizes, or made to order from a well-fitting bodice, from about 15s. and 25s. respectively. II. MATERIALS REQUIRED FOR TAILORING Cloth, Tweed, or Serge Suitable Linings French Canvas This canvas (string colour) is used for interlining the fronts of coats, waistcoats, collars, revers, flaps of pockets, etc., to give them the necessary firmness. It can be had in two thicknesses — the finer make is the more suitable for ladies' tailoring. It can be obtained from any good tailor's trimming shop, at 6d. per yard. There is also a white canvas made, for interlining white coats, etc. Linen (black or white) This is used as an interlining for strength- ening buttonholes, and for placing under buttons, to strengthen the openings and the corners of pockets, to form a bridle to prevent the crease edge of the revers from stretching out of shape, to give firmness to the cuff or the bottom of sleeves ; also as an interlining to the hem of skirts requiring extra firmness, and to be placed under any part of the garment which is to be ornamented with machine stitching, so that the stitches may be raised to the surface. The linen should be of a firm make, but not heavy or stiff. It can be had from any good draper's, and costs from about 8d. per yard. Tacking Cotton This can be bought in large reels of 1,000 yards for 2|d. and 3|d., according to the thickness. So much tacking is necessary in good tailoring that it is extravagant to use good sewing cotton for it. Machine Silk Quarter-ounce reels of coloured silks are best, as they can be had in different numbers, price 4|d. per reel. One-ounce reels of black silk are the most economical, and cost from about is. 4|d. per reel. Buttonhole Twist This is sold by the yard or in penny reels. The twist on the reels is only made in one thickness, but that sold by the yard is of various thicknesses, and costs from a penny a yard, according to size. Linen Thread This thread is used (twisted and waxed) in the working of tailor's buttonholes, and it should match the twist in colour as nearly as possible. It is sold in skeins, and can be had at any good tailor's trimming shop. in. STITCHE5 USED IN TAILORING Tacking and Basting Tacking is a stitch made by passing the needle and cotton in and out of the material in a horizontal direction, taking up a small piece of material, and passing over a much larger piece, forming a longer stitch on the right side. It is used for fixing the seams of garments together so that they may be easily and correctly stitched; if extra firmness is necessary, an occasional backstitch can be made. For tacking seams of bodices together for trying on, the stitches should be made smaller, taking up the same amount of material as has been passed over. Cotton of a contrasting colour is best for tacking, as it is easily distinguished, and the tacked line can be followed in the stitch- ing, ensuring a straight line to the seam. Basting is also used for holding two materials together, but this stitch is more suitable for fixing in linings, etc., or where large spaces have to be covered with the stitch. Both tacking and basting must always be done with the materials lying flat on the table, or on a board, not over the hand, or the upper side will be puckered. Tailor Tacking This is the tailor's method of tracing the line of the seams, or any other part of the garment (which has already been out- lined in tailor's chalk on the first half), through to the second half. If carefully done, the two halves will be found to match exactly.