Page:Every Woman's Encyclopedia Volume 1.djvu/90

 ~DRES8 72 cut out (allowing sufficient for turnings all round) to fit the bottom of the sleeve. It should be turned down and firmly sewn in all round to fill in the bottom of the sleeve. The sleeve should then be stuffed with saw- dust, very firmly pressed in, to give the sleeve the shape of the arm. When the sleeve is quite full, another oval piece of holland must be cut with turnings, turned down, and sewn in all round to fill in the top of the sleeve in the same way as the smaller piece at the wrist. Both the right and left arm can be made in this way if desired, and will be found a great help in the draping of sleeves. CUTTINQ-OUT SCISSORS, BUTTONHOLE SCISSORS, NEEDLES The most useful sizes for needles are 5 to 9, and if a dress is to be boned, No. 4 " between " needles are the best. PINS, STEEL PINS, AND TAPE MEASURE Fine steel pins are the best for pinning velvet and silk, as they do not mark the material as ordinary pins do. TRACING WHEEL (Dia. i) A single one is best, and is used for marking seams, etc. It costs is. N.B. — A double wheel costs more and is not nearly so good, as they are made to mark both the lines of stitching and the width for the turning ; but as all seams do not require the same width of turning to be left on them, and the width of turning also varies with the material, it is better to use a single wheel and to leave the necessary turning. PUSH PINS (Dia. 2) These are most useful for fixing a paper pattern to the lining, etc.. Tracing flat ou the table, or board, ready Dia. ^^ ^® outlined with the tracing wheel. The push pins have needle points, and do not leave a mark on the material. If ordinary npins are used the pattern is frequently "puckered" on the lining or material, and cannot be out- lined so accurately. These push pins are sold in boxes of one dozen for 5d. a box. PINKINQ IRON, MALLET, LEAD (Dia. 3) Silk frills can be " pinked " out round the edge, if required, by the home worker herself if a pinking iron, wooden mallet, and a piece of lead are purchased. The pinking irons cost from about gd. each, according to the size of the scallop. The lead Pinking Iron ^^ sold by Weight (a small piece Dia. 3 is sufficient). The mallet should Push Pin Dia. 2 be made of boxwood, or it will soon split ; it costs about 2s. or 2s. 6d. For further appliances, see next article on Tailoring. PART II Materials, etc,, necessary for Dressmaking, Material for makinq the desired Garment, Suitable Lining (if a Lining is desired), TACKING COTTON This cotton can be bought in reels of 1,000 yards in various numbers. The price is from 2|d. per reel, according to the number. MACHINE AND SEWING COTTON, SEWING AND MACHINE SILK If the garment is to be entirely stitched with silk, it is more economical to buy it in quarter-ounce reels, price 5d. each. Another advantage is that the silk on this size ree] can be had in various thicknesses. If only a small quantity of silk is required, the ordinary i^d. reels can be used. They are usually very fine, and are suitable for stitch- ing thin materials and for hemming, over- sewing, etc. BUTTONHOLE TWIST This can be bought either by the yard or in penny reels in any colour. That on the reels is all of one size, but the twist sold by the yard is of various thicknesses, and is from id. a yard, according to the thickness. Buttonhole twist is used for the working of eyelets, loops, embroidering eyes, stitch- ing on hooks and eyes, also for " fanning " bones, stitching in tight bands, cross-stitch for marking the centre of skirt bands, etc., as well as for working buttonholes. Twist to match the dress should be used for working the buttonholes, eyelets, eyes, and loops. For stitching hooks and eyes on to bands it should be black or white, to match the band. For " fanning " the bones, stitching in the tight band, and the cross-stitch for marking the centre of the skirt band, twist of a con- trasting colour is generally used. HOOKS AND EYES, ETC. These are of various kinds. The ordinary hooks are sold in packets at id. each or two for i^d., and in different sizes. HUMP HOOKS AND LACE HOOKS These are usually sold on cards. Any of the above can be used for bodices and blouses. Mantle hooks are sold on cards at 2d. or 3d. per card, according to quality. These, besides being used for cloaks, wraps, etc., are useful for fastening bands of skirts, but they must be of a small size for this purpose, or they will be too bulky. These small sized mantle hooks are only made in the best quality at 3d. per card. PATENT FASTENERS These are used for fastening placket-holes, also blouses, etc. They close more securely and invisibly than ordinary hooks and eyes, and are of various kinds. The first practical lessons to be given in Part 2 of Every Woman's ENCYCLor^DiA