Page:Every Woman's Encyclopedia Volume 1.djvu/788

 DRESS 760 formed in the skirt under each dart. The two seams which are already tacked must now be machine-stitched from the top downwards, and, after the tacking-threads have been taken out, place the skirt — wrong side uppermost — on a skirtboard, dip the tips of the fingers in water, and damp one of the seams before pressing. N.B. — The turnings in this style of seam — shown in the skirt of the finished sketch in the Tailoring Lesson, page 758— must not be separated and pressed open, but should be turned the same way — towards the front of the skirt. How to Damp and Press the Seams Press the seam well from the top down- wards. The iron should not be constantly lifted and t ut down again, but moved very gradually all along the seam, and it must not be hot enough to scorch, as it should be allowed to remain some time on the seam ; it is the weight and time given to pressing that ensure good results. The damping must not be commenced right through the double turnings that are on the wrong side. Machine-stitch — with silk — down each side of the front, about three-eighths of an inch from the seam ; these seams should now have the appearance of being lapped. Joining: tlie Back of 5kirt The back of the skirt must now be joined up. To do this fold the skirt in half — wrong side out — and place it flat on the table with the two edges exactly meeting ; pin them together from the top downwards, allowing the weight of the skirt to rest on the table to prevent stretching the back seam, one side of which is more apt to stretch than the other. Both sides must be kept exactly the same length — they were cut exactly the same size — and the turnings must, therefore, be made to meet, both at the top and at the bottom. The hang of the skirt will be spoiled if one side is stretched and then cut off to make it the same length as the other. Measure one inch and a half from the edge and make a mark, continue to measure Diagram 2. Showing the darts when the tailor-tacking has been cut until the iron is ready heated, and one seam only must be damped at a time, or the other seams will shrink while the first is being pressed. Damp and press the second seam in the same way, then cut the turnings of the darts down the centre and as near to the point as possible. Separate the turning of one of the darts and damp and press the seam of it open and quiU flat. N.B. —Special care must be taken to thoroughly damp the extreme point, and the iron must be allowed to remain on it until all the moisture has dried up from the board on which it is being pressed, so that 1/ there is any fulness at the point it may be shrunk away. Damp and press the three other darts in the same way. Turn the skirt over, and place it on the board agam— right side uppermost— and tack down each side of the front about a quarter of an inch from the seam, taking the needle and mark at intervals all down the back of the skirt, and with two tailor's squares placed together draw one long line for the back seam — passing through these marks — to ensure its being tacked and stitched per- fectly straight. Cut a strip of linen, selvedge- wise, about half an inch wide and the length of the skirt — a piece of tape will do equally well. Place it over and all along the chalk line, and tack it through the double material all down the back of the skirt. Machine stitch down the seam from the top of the skirt to the bottom. N.B. — The strip of linen or tape stitched in with the seam will prevent it stretching. Take out the tacking, damp the seam, and press it open, following the instructions given for pressing. The back seam of a skirt should always be pressed open, even when the other seams are " lapped " — the skirt would appear crooked if the back seam were " lapped. To be continued.