Page:Every Woman's Encyclopedia Volume 1.djvu/786

 DRE88 758 Finished sketch of the coat, showing collar, revers, pocket, etc., as described. The making of the skirt is fully described and illustrated in the dressmaking lessons Measure and mark for the turnings in the same way as the front. Place the patterns of the " back," " side body," and " side-piece " on the material as shown in the diagram, and outline each piece all round near the edge. A Coat Is Made Lonsrer Waisted than a Bodice N.B. — A coat must always be longer waisted than a bodice, especially in the back and " side body," from i inch to i| inches, accordmg to the figure. For a slight figure 1 i mches would not be too much ; for a stout figure i inch would be sufficient. Add to the length for the basque i or li mches (to lengthen the waist), and with the tape measure and piece of chalk draw the une for the bottom of each piece. Draw a straight line for the front, and a sloping line for the back of each piece, in the same way as for the side of the front. N.B. — As there is no " face " to a serge, the pieces can be placed up and down on it (see diagram). There is no fear of the pieces not matching, as they are being cut from the material folded double ; but as serge is a diagonal material, the bottom of the sleeve pattern must always be placed straight across the cut edge, as shown in the diagram. If this is not done it will be found that the^ " diagonal " will run across the one sleeve and down the other. Outline the pattern of the sleeve, and draw a second line about an inch beyond it on the inner seam and round the top, and about i| inches for turning on the back seam (as this is the fitting seam), and draw a second line about 2 inches from the outline at the bottom for turning up. N.B. — ^Tailors always leave this extra turning or " inlay " at the bottom of the sleeve to turn up, instead of " facing " a sleeve as dressmakers do. The blank space left on the diagram repre- sents the material left over for the " facing " of the " revers " and front (which should be cut in one piece), also for the straps round the sleeves. (See finished sketch.) The " facing " for the front of the coat must be cut longer than from the bottom oi the coat to the top of the " revers," because then the " revers " is turned back ; the " facing " of it should also form part of the " facing " of the collar, as shown by the dotted line in diagram. (This will appear in the next Lesson in Tailoring.) N.B. — It is better to leave the cutting out of these " facings " until the coat is in a more advanced stage, — i.e., until the fronts have been interlined with French canvas, the revers padded, and the edges of both turned in, the shoulder seams joined up, and the collar padded and put on. When all this has been done, the correct size and shape of the "facing" is more easily ascertained, and a diagram for cutting it out will be given in a future lesson. Cut out all the pieces of the coat, sleeves, etc., carefully, onihe outer lines (which denote the turnings). Unpin all the pieces of the bodice pattern ; do not separate the pieces of the material, but put a pin or two through each double piece, to keep them exactly together. Take a square and draw the waist line across each double piece of the coat from the chalk line on each side of the waist. The double pieces for the collar and for the pocket-flaps can be put aside, as they are not required at present. " Tailor-tack " through the double pieces on all the chalk lines denoting the outline of coat, waist line and sleeves, in order to reproduce these lines on the under pieces of the material. Instructions for " tailor- tacking " are given in the lesson on dress- making. To be continued.