Page:Every Woman's Encyclopedia Volume 1.djvu/785

 757 For adaptation to a coat it is better to have the Ixxlicc ixitlcrn modelled to a length of 7 inches below the waist, so that the size of the hips may be obtained. How to Place the Pattern on the Material Two and three-quarter yards of serge, 54 inches wide, will be required to make the coat as shown in the sketch. It should be of a firm make, not loose and " stretchy," or the seams will be crooked. The basque of the coat, measured from the waistline to the bottom, is 14 inches in depth. Place the piece of material on the table, folded length- wise, the two selvedges together, and place the front of the bodice pattern on it at one end, with the front edge about 3 inches from the selvedge to allow for the revers, and extra width for the front of the coat (see diagram i). Pin it smoothly to the material with ordinary pins, or through the material to the deal table or board with " push pins." (These pins are illustrated on page 72 in Part i.) Take a piece of tailor's chalk, hold it upright, and outhne the pattern close to the edge all round, and mark the waistline on each side. Take a tape measure, and hold the end of it between the thumb and forefinger of the right hand on the waistline of the front of the bodice pattern. Take a piece of tailor's chalk in the left hand, and hold it upright in the tape measure exactly on the number denoting the length (14 inches) the basque is to be when finished. Mark round with the chalk held upright, working the hands slowly and simultaneously to the width required for the front, being careful to keep the tape tightly extended between the two hands. This gives the hne for the bottom of the front of the coat. From each side of the bodice pattern, draw with the square a straight Hne to the one just made. To allow for the revers, draw lines on the material from the front to the selvedge, as shown on the diagram. The selvedge itself can be left on for the turning down the front edge. This completes the outhne for the front piece of the coat. Draw a second Hne about I inch beyond the outhne of the side-seam for the turning. For the shoulder, draw a second line about i^ inches beyond the outline, as this is a " fitting seam." Draw a second line, about i| inches from the bottom, for the turning up. Place the pattern of the side of the front in the position shown on the diagram. Outline the pattern close to the edge all round, and mark the waistline on each side. Measure the length for the basque (14 inches), and with the tape measure and piece of chalk draw the line for the bottom of the side in the same way as for the front. From the front side of the bodice pattern draw with the square a straight line to the one just made, and from the back side draw a sloping line. To do this, place the square from the waist along the edge of the bodice pattern, and draw a hne to the bottom of the DRE88 coat. This completes the outline of the side of the front. CO ■a Cut LdQ.c Diagram 1. Showing how the scpirate parts of the pattern for coat must be placed on material. When cutting out. the selvedge should bs in front of the worker