Page:Every Woman's Encyclopedia Volume 1.djvu/67

 b The motor has practically revolutionised dress. It has almost banished what used to be known as the house-gown, and it has encouraged the short skirt at the expense of the long. Only in the evenings is there any permanence of fashion for the trained skirt. Even the rest-gown is abbreviated, as com- pared with the proportions of its predecessor, the tea-gown. These changes affect the trousseau by diminishing its cost in one direction, and adding to it in another, since motor costume, including bonnets and veils, which quickly soil, owing to the dust of the roads, adds considerably to the expenditure. THE HOME-MADE TROUSSEAU So inexpensively can ready-made garments be bought that it is scarcely worth while to spend weeks before the wedding at the sewing machine, as did the brides-to-be of forty years ago. At the same time, however, there are many little things, such as blouses, slips, camisoles, and neckwear that can be made at home, and some girls are even clever enough to make a gown or two, with the aid of well -cut paper patterns. Provided with a good design for blouses, and one that is not only up to date, but likely to last in fashion for some time, a few mornings may be spent profitably in sewing. There is on record the case of a bride who made every article in her trousseau, in- cluding boots and corsets. One wonders, however, if the marriage turned out to be a success, because one of the most valuable things in the guidance of hfe is a sense of proportion, Had the young lady in question possessed this she would probably have perceived that the amount of time spent in making boots and corsets, was out of pro- portion to the sums she saved in doing so. There is such a thing as a partly home- made trousseau, which may be recommended to the attention of engaged girls. The large drapery shops sell quantities of " robes," and other gowns, of which the skirts are finished, but the bodices unmade. The girl, therefore, who is clever enough to make the bodice at home secures a pretty gown at very low cost. In the same way, blouses bought ready- made can be fitted to the purchaser's figure by her own skilful fingers, and the half- guinea charged at the shop or by dress- makers for the alteration is thereby saved. Not everyone enjoys the advantage of being "stock-size," that is, of the dimensions to which ready-made gowns are cut. The most usual stock size has a bust of 34 inches, waist, 24 ; and front of skirt, 44. Some of the best houses keep a larger size as well. But even when the measurements approximate to those of the figure there may be some divergence of line, and when this can be rorrected at home, there is considerable saving. The marking with daintily embroidered initials, moreover, may be done at home. d9 MARRIAOe It is pretty work, and docs not call for ex- pert skill. The initials or monogram, how- ever, should be distinct enough to serve for a laundry mark. There are many firms which, if entrusted with the whole of the lingerie, will make a proportionate reduction, and will supply an estimate. One can know, therefore, exactly how much one is going to spend. This, however, need not prevent the engaged girl running up a few things at home. TWENTY-POUND TROUSSEAU There are thousands of girls whose fathers cannot afford more than £10 for their trousseau. The following, therefore, will give some idea of what may be bought for that sum in these days of ready-made clothing. The wedding-gown may be of even simpler material than voile, but it shoukl always be planned with an eye to future usefulness. As a summer outing frock it may fulfil its duty, and also for wearing at entertainments to which the young couple are invited. It might appear impossible to some that a tailor-made costume could be had for so small a sum as 25s., but those who buy in large towns will have no difficulty in finding these. Some of them are really well cut, and with care keep their lines for a very reason- able time. There are firms in the manufacturing dis- tricts which supply tailor-cut gowns, coats, and costumes at astoundingly low prices, and those who have tried them find them satisfactory in point of wearing. As an example, may be mentioned a blue serge skirt that cost 14s. 6d., and is still in wear, and looking passably well after four years oi liberal use. Such firms as these make trousseau-buying easy to girls with a small allowance for the purpose. i s. d. Wedding-gown, white voile. . 2 10 o White hat or tulle veil. . . . o 10 6 Going-away gown 2 10 o Tailor-made costume 150 Home gown o 19 6 Waterproof i 19 Cloth or serge coat o 15 i' Two hats, at 12s. 9d 156 Two pair of shoes, at 8s. I id. .. o 17 ic House shoes, 3s. iid. ; bedroom sUppers. IS. iid. o 5 10 Gloves, veils, neckwear. . . . o 15 o En-tout-cas o 6ti Two blouses, at 4s. iid. . . . . o q 10 Six nightgowns, at 3s. 6d i i o Six combinations, at 2s. iid. .. o 17 6 Six knickers, at is. I id on b Four camisoles, at is. 6d o 6 o Two corsets i 10 o Two petticoats, at 4s. i id o 9 10 Six pair of stockings, at is. 2d. . . o 7 o One dozen handkerchiefs. . . . 5 i« £20 o o