Page:Every Woman's Encyclopedia Volume 1.djvu/668

 DRESS 642 This gives the net size the collar is to be when finished. The canvas must always be cut exactly to the measurements ; no turnings are needed or must be allowed. N.B. — If the collar is being cut from a small piece of canvas from which the selvedge has been removed, great care must be taken to cut the collar perfectly on the -cross, or it will not set. If a sufficiently large piece of canvas is not available, several pieces can be joined Diagram 2. Herringbone down the raw edges together, provided the joins are all made on the straight ; the raw edges are placed one over the other and herringboned down, as shown in diagram No. 2. Instructions for herringboning were given in the Dressmaking lesson in Part 3, but in joining the pieces of canvas together the stitches must be taken through the two folds to secure them firmly together. Cut out the crossway piece exactly on the lines, make a mark at the edge of the canvas at half its length, from this mark measure I inch or more, up, and make another mark ; this gives the depth for the " stand " of the collar. Measure from each end 2 inches or less, make a mark, and draw a curved line from it to the mark, which is i inch (or more) up, at the centre. Fold the canvas in half — with the curved line outside — and trace through it to the under half with a tracing-wheel ; this ensures the two halves being exactly alike. Cut a small piece off the canvas at the ends (from the mark at 2 inches from the end), taking off about a quarter of an inch of the depth of the collar, unfold the canvas, and draw over the traced line to perfect the curve. The canvas is now ready to be put on to the cloth ; the underside of the collar must be done first. Place a piece of cloth to match the coat (when a coat is being made) wrong side uppermost on the table, and put the piece of canvas (with the curved line uppermost) along, and about half an inch from, the cut edge of the cloth ; tack them together loosely along the centre with three or four stitches only. N.B. — If the cloth is " faced," the canvas must be tacked to it so that the " face " will smooth downwards. Cut out the cloth, leaving about half an inch all round beyond the canvas for turning. Diagram 3. Run neatly round the curved line Thread a needle with silk to match the cloth in colour, make a knot, and, holding the canvas uppermost, run neatly round the curved line, taking only one stitch at a time, draw the row of running rather tight, and fasten it off firmly at the end (see diagram No. 3). This row of running stitches divides the " stand " from the " fall " of the collar, and the tightness prevents the back of the collar stretching and standing out from the neck of the wearer. The Collar must now be Padded Padding is a stitch used in tailoring to secure canvas to cloth in collars, revers, etc., and to make them " roll " ; also to keep two pieces of canvas together to interline and stiffen fancy collars, revers, cuffs, etc. To pad the collar commence with the " fall," hold it lengthwise, canvas upper- most, over the first finger of the left hand, with the curved row of running stitches to the right. Thread a needle with fine silk to match the cloth, make a knot, and take a short, straight stitch from right to left through the canvas to the cloth, close to the row of running stitches dividing the " stand " from the " fall " ; this will form a small stitch on the cloth side. Make a second short, straight stitch from right to left, about a Diagram 4, How to commence the padding quarter of an inch above the first stitch ; this will form a slanting stitch on the canvas, and another straight stitch on the cloth (see d'agram No. 4). Continue working in this way to the end of the curved line of running, then, without turning the work, but still holding it in the same position, work hjck again, making each straight stitch start from the middle of the slanting stitch in the last row, but not touching it. Continue to work these stitches backwards and forwards without turning the work at all, until the whole of the " fall " has been padded. Turn the collar round, and pad the " stand " in the same way, backwards and forwards from the row of trimming and lengthwise of the collar, holding the " fall " to the right, and working as before until the whole of the " stand " has been padded (see diagram No. 5.) Diagram 5. How the padding should look when finished N.B. — Great care must be taken when padding to hold the work correctly, or the shape of the collar or revers will be spoiled. The work must be held over the finger the whole time, lengthwise of the collar or revers, thus allowing the canvas to become longer than the cloth which is underneath, and making the collar or revers " roll." The edges of the cloth must next be turned down over the canvas, and neatly tacked near the edge all round. All superfluous cloth must be cut away at the corners, £o that they may lie perfectly flat. To be continued. The following are good firms for supplying materials, etc., mentioned in th* Section: Messrs. Clark & Co. (Dyeing and Cleaning); Horrockses' (Longcloths and Sheetings— Wholesale only)