Page:Every Woman's Encyclopedia Volume 1.djvu/667

 64t «>*■•* PRACTECAIL LESSONS IN TAILORING FOR HOME WORKERS AND OTHERS By M. PRINCH BROWNE Examiner in Drcssmnk'tng, Tailoring^ French Pattern Modelling^ Millinery, and Plain Needlework of the Teachers in Training at the University College of South Wales and Monmouthshire, Cardiff, the London Technical lixamijiation Centre, etc. Author of ^^ Up-to- Date Dresscutting and Drafting,^* also '^ The Practical Work of Dressmaking and Tailoring^ FIFTH Continued from paf^e s^S, Part 4 LESSON POCKETS continued Circular Pockets (continued) — Roll Collar — Revers — Padding HTo make the pocket, cut two pieces of lining the depth the pocket is to be, and face the top of one piece on the right side (about three inches down) with a piece of the cloth ; this is to prevent the lining showing through the opening. N.B. — If a circular pocket is being made in a coat, the lining must, of course, match that of the coat. Place the piece of lining which has been faced, wrong side uppermost, on the wrong side of the cloth, with the facing over the opening, the facing to be towards the top of the opening ; tack it in this position along the top (as near as possible to the curved line) to the piece of linen, and machine-stitch it to this, but not through to the cloth re- presenting the coat. Take the second piece of lining which is !o form the pocket, and place it wrong side uppermost, with the edge to the lower edge of the linen, and the pocket piece facing upwards. Tack and stitch this to the lower edge of the linen, and as near as possible to the curved hne ; but do not stitch through to the cloth. Turn both pieces for the pocket down- wards, and stitch them together all round, but no stitches must be taken through to the piece of cloth, representing the coat, in which the pocket is being made. Take a small piece of linen and hold it under one comer, on the wrong side of the pocket, and fix it firmly in this position by " private stitching " it through from the right side of the piece of cloth (or coat), prrdding the needle up and down several times. Do the other comer of the pocket with a small piece of linen' in the same way. These small pieces of linen are stitched under the corners to strengthen them, and to prevent the pocket stretching out of shape with use. From the right side of the piece of cloth (or coat) " private stitch " round the top curve of the opening right through to the pocket. If this is not done a " flap " will be found at the top of the curve when the tacking (illustrated in diagram No. 4. Part 4), which keeps the two edges of the opening together, is removed. In making a coat it is better to leave the opening of the pocket tacked across until the coat is quite finished. N.B. — Private stitching is always done by hand, with some of the same kind of silk with which the machine-stitching has been done. and each stitch must be worked oi'er a machine-stitch, so that it may appear one with it and not show ; it is because it must be invisible that it is called " private stitching." It is used to fix the comers of pockets, or any part which has been previously stitched (for ornament), but requires to be fastened down securely and invisibly. Roll Collar and Revers A " roll collar " is cut, worked, pressed, and then put on to the coat and " faced " ; the " revers " are cut in one with the fronts of the coat, but as the worker has not yet learned to make a coat, the collar and revers (like the pockets) can be made for practice on a piece of cloth. A good guide for the length of the collar is the size of the neck (measured round the base) plus one inch — e.g., if the neck measure is 14 inches, the collar should be 15 inches long, and 3 or 3^ inches deep. Take a piece of French canvas, and measure about eleven inches along the selvedge, and make a mark, and about 11 inches along the cut edge make another mark. Place a tailor's square across the- comer of the canvas from one StL<ji^^ Diagram I mark to the other, and draw a line with a pencil or piece of French chalk ; on this line measure and mark the 15 inches (for the length of the collar), and from each end of the line measure and mark 3 or 3^ inches for the depth of the collar. Place the square from one mark to the other, and draw a second line parallel to the first and 15 inches long, and connect these two lines bv two short perpendicular lines (as in diagram No. i). lU
 * rather wider than the opening and