Page:Every Woman's Encyclopedia Volume 1.djvu/664

 DRESS 638 5elved§e Diagram 2. Drafting the skirt 34 YaiJ*. half an inch for turnings), and make a mark. Take a tape measure, and hold the end of it with the thumb and forefinger of the left hand on " the curve for waist " where it touches the selvedge. Take a piece of tailor's chalk in the right hand, hold it upright in the tape measure, exactly on the mark denoting the length of the skirt and turning (42 1 inches), and mark round with the chalk for the bottom of the skirt from the selvedge to the centre-back line, moving the two hands simultaneously — the left one more slowly along the " curve for waist." The tape measure must be tightly extended between the two hands all the time the dotted line is being drawn. Still holding the left hand in the same position, place the chalk 4^ inches lower down the tape measure, and draw a second line for the hem and turning. Cut the material out on the chalk lines all round {none of the dotted lines must be cut), and place the piece along the opposite selvedge of the material, in the position shown on the diagram, with the wrong side facing the wrong side of the material, and cut out the second piece exactly the same size as the first. For this skirt the front should be 5 inches wide at the top and 10 inches at the bottom, plus I inch on each side for the turnings. To draft it, measure from the selvedge across the material 6 inches, and make a mark ; from it, measure down 42-^ inches (for the length of skirt when finished, plus half an inch for turning at the waist), make a mark, and with the squares draw a dotted line parallel to the selvedge from one mark to the other ; this gives the centre of the front. Measure and mark 2 inches on each side of the dotted line, and for the bottom, measure and mark 5 inches on each side of the other end of the dotted line, and with the squares draw a slanting, dotted line from one mark to the other on each side. From each of these slanting lines measure and mark i inch for turnings, and draw two lon^ chalk lines. Draw a chalk line across the top and a dotted line across the bottom. Beyond this dotted line measure 4^ inches for the hem and turning, and draw a chalk line across as shown in the diagram. Cut out the front on the chalk lines. The three pieces of the skirt are now ready to be put together. Place one of the gores, right side uppermost, flat on the table, and lay the front, wrong side uppermost, over it, with the edge level with the straight side of the gore, and the top edges of the two pieces quite even. Pin, and then tack them together all down the dotted line on the side of the front. Place the second gore, right side uppermost, on the table, and lay the other side of the front, wrong side uppermost, over it, with the edge level with the straight side of the gore, and the top edges of the two pieces quite even. Pin, and then tack them together down the dotted line on the side of the front. N.B. — The seams of every skirt must be pinned, and then tacked, from the top downwards, and this must always be done flat on the table, or the seams will be puckered. The straight of each gore must always be placed towards the front, or if the gores are sloped on both sides, the side which is least sloped must be placed towards the front. The home-worker will find it easier to fit the skirt before the back seam is joined, and it should always be fitted right side out. Pin the skirt at the centre of the front to the figure or dress-stand, bring the skirt round smoothly, but not strained, over the hips (about 7 inches below the waist), pin it together at the back, and again pin it to the figure or stand at the waist. The top of this skirt must be reduced to the size of the waist by means of two darts on each side. The space between the two darts should be the same as that between the side-seam and the first dart. To be continued. I
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