Page:Every Woman's Encyclopedia Volume 1.djvu/548

 DRESS 524 together for the opening to be cut in this way, it is not only unnecessary, but cannot be done. The lower of the two pieces of lining must now be passed through the opening and tacked down quite close to the turning — the lining and cloth being level at the edge. A row of machine stitching should then be placed as near as possible to the edge of this turning. The upper piece of lining must now be passed through the opening — the flap only being left on the right side. The small seam which attaches the flap to the coat must next be pressed open, and as flat as possible, and a row of machine stitching worked on the coat just above the flap, and close to the seam. This row of stitching must correspond with the one which is round the edge of the flap — if there are two rows of Diagram 1. A flap pocket as it should Stitching r O U U d appear on the right side of coat the flap, there must be two rows at the top ; and the second of these must be continued down each end, to appear as if it continued beneath the flap. The two pieces of lining which are to form the pocket must be tacked together and stitched round, without, of course, takiiig any stitches through to the coat. A small piece of linen must be placed and pinned at each end of the opening, on the wrong side of the coat, and over the pocket just made. The small tongue of the material which is on the right side must be turned in with a strong needle, and firmly fast- ened down by a sort of fell- ing stitch. Diagram 2. This is done by prodding the needle up and down, passing it from the wrong side (through the small piece of linen) up close to the turned-in edge of the tongue, and down again well under the edge, so that no stitch is visible on the right side. As many of these stitches as are necessary must be made at each end of the pocket. These ends must not be puckered, and great care must be Shows a flap pocket on the wrong side taken to make them lie perfectly flat, and not to show beyond the flap. N.B. — If the pocket has been properly made the flap, if passed into the pocket, should lie quite flat without the opening showing beyond it at either side. The pocket must be well pressed (on the wrong side) with a tailor's goose. When finished, the right side of this pocket should appear as in diagram No. i. and the wrong side as in diagram No. 2. Patch Pocket A patch pocket is simply a piece of the same cloth as the coat or other garment being made, or a piece of the lining — if the pocket is to be inside and the coat or other garment is to be lined — cut to the desired shape and size and turned in and tacked all round. Before the pocket is put on, the top edge must be finished off by being turned in and " faced " with lute ribbon or Prussian binding; or turned in and " faced " to the lining (if there is one), and one or more rows of machine stitching may be worked across, if desired. It must then be well pressed, tacked on to the garment, and either machine stitched or sewn on by hand, if the stitches must not show through. Circular Pocket The method of making the circular pocket can be learned (as in the case of the flap pocket) on a piece of cloth. To make the pocket take a piece of tailor's chalk, and on the right side of the cloth draw a slightly curved line about 4^ or 5 inches across, as illustrated in diagram No. 3. Cut a piece of, linen about ^^ or >^ '^-. - - — >v ^ inches long, selv- edge - wise, and about 2^ inches Diagram 3. Draw a slightly curved widc ; place this line in tailor's chalk on the right side of qjj -j-J-j^g wronff Side material <■ ,i • ° r of the piece of cloth, exactly under the curved line (which is drawn on the right side), leaving an equal length of the linen beyond the end of the line on each side ; pin it in this position, and tack the cloth to the linen ; the tacking must be done on the right side exactly on and along the chalk line, so that the line of tacking stitches on the wrong side exactly reproduces the chalk line on the right side. N.B. — This straight piece of linen is to strengthen the opening of the pocket, and to prevent it stretching. Cut a piece of the same cloth slightly longer than the chalk line, about 3 inches wide, and exactly on the cross ; place it right side downwards " facing " the piece of cloth in which the pocket is being made, over the chalk line, leaving (as near as possible) an equal amount of the crossway piece beyond it all round, and pin it in this position. N.B. — If the material is diagonal, the cross- way piece must be cut across the diagonal Unes, and not with them. Turn the work over and, from the wrong side, tack on the