Page:Every Woman's Encyclopedia Volume 1.djvu/253

 23» DRKftS Basting Basting is another nictliod of tacknig, but is only suitable for tacking skirts to the lining, or for portions of the dress where large spaces have to be covered — not for seams. The stitch is worked as shown in diagram 6. It should always be done with the material lying fiat on the table or board. Diagram 6 Running: Running is a stitch made by taking up the same amount of material as is passed over ; all the stitches must be of equal length. If the material is thin and soft, several stitches can be taken on to the needle before the thread is drawn through. Gathering Gathering is very much like running, except that only half the amount of material is taken up on the needle as that which is passed over, thus forming a short stitch on the wrong side, and one twice the length on the right. If a second row of gathering is required below the first, the stitches must exactly correspond with the row above (see diagram 7), and the two threads must be drawn up simultaneously. If more than two rows of gathering are required, they must be done in the same way. T Diagram 7 Hemming A hem is a double fold of material, and the stitch used to secure the fold is called hemming. For materials such as linen, zephyr, muslin, cambric, etc., the raw edge can be turned down and firmly creased the whole length of the frill (or otherwise) which is to be hemmed, and if the hem is only to be a narrow one, a second turning the same width can be made, and firmly creased down. N.B. — Narrow hems need not be tacked, but wide ones (in which the first turning sliou-kl only just be wide enough to prevent the raw edges from fraying) ought always to be tacked securely first, also hems in woollen materials which will not crease. The stitch is worked from right to left, the needle must be inserted in a slanting direction just below the edge of the hem, and pushed through just above it. These stitches must be taken all along the hem in a continuous line, a few threads apart, and they must all be made the same length (see diagram 8). Diagram 8 Stitching In stitching, as in hemming, only one stitch can be worked at a time. Take up a small piece of material on the needle, draw it through, and put the needle in exactly where the stitch was commenced, bringing it out in front of the stitch, leaving ^, s^d^ce exactly the same length as the space covered by the stitch just made. Work a Continuous row of these stitches, exactly meeting one another and of the same length, to the end of the seam, or whatever is being stitched. The beauty of stitching -depends on the uniform length of ea.ch stitch, and on the straightness of the stitched line. Back-stitching The only difference between this and stitching, is, that instead of putting the needle back to meet the last stitch, it is carried only half way back, leaving a space between each stitch, thus forming a broken, instead' of a continuous, line of stitching (see diagram 9). d" Diagram 9 Back stitching can be used instead of stitching in any part of the garment where less firmness and strength is required. To be contimud