Page:Every Woman's Encyclopedia Volume 1.djvu/252

 DRESS 230 For boning the backs of evening bodices, whether fastened with hooks or laces, a narrow whalebone should always be used. This can be purchased in strips from io|d. each, according to the length. Prussian Binding: This is used as a " casing " for the bones down the seams of bodices, also for " facing " the sewing on of hooks and eyes, for loops on the bands of skirts (by which to hang them up), and for " facing " raw edges, etc., to make them neat. It can be had in various colours, but either black or white should always be used for bone casings, as they should match the " tight-band " of the bodice and the band of the skirt, which are always either black or white. The price of Prussian binding is a penny a yard, or lojd. per dozen. There is a cheaper quality, but it is too clumsy for bone casing. The twilled side of the binding is the right side, and should, of course, be placed upper- most. Lute Ribbon This is a plain, soft, sarcenet ribbon, and can be had in various widths and in all colours from id. a yard, according to the width. It is sometimes used instead of Prussian binding for bone casings in silk, or silk lined, bodices, for facing the sewing on of hooks and eyes, for binding or " facing " round the basques of bodices, binding seams, " facing " the raw edge of the hem of a skirt (when the material is too thick to be turned in), and sometimes for binding the top of a thin skirt, instead of putting it into a band at the waist. Slcirt Braid and Binding: These are used for preserving the edge of walking skirts. The ordinary plain worsted braid can be had in any colour, and costs from ^d. per yard. Another kind is brush braid, but the appearance is not so good, as it makes the skirt look '* frayed." Velveteen binding is sometimes used instead of braid to preserve the bottom of a skirt, which it should match in colour, and if the binding is prepared at home, strips of velveteen should be cut perfectly on the cross of the width desired (from i^ to 3 inches), the strips being neatly joined together. N.B. — ^The method of cutting and joining strips of material on the cross is given in the second lesson on tailoring, with diagrams Nos. 9, 10, II. Velvet binding or skirt facing can be bought ready cut in black and all colours from ijd. per yard, or is. 5|d. per dozen yards, according to the width. Buckram Buckram is only necessary if the bodice is to be made with a stiff " stand " collar. There are several kinds, but the best is not a heavy make (it is yellowish and waxy- looking, and it is not rolled, but folded double, and two collars can be cut from the width). A small quantity is all that is necessary, as a quarter of a yard is sufficient to cut about six collars. It costs lo^d. per yard. Stitclies Used in Dressmaking: Tacking Hemming Basting Stitching Running Back- stitching Gathering Slip -stitching Sewing Overcasting Herringhoning Buttonholing Fancy Stitcfies Fanning Honeycombing Cross-stitch Feather- stitching Smocking French Knot Tackinjf Tacking is the stitch used when fixing two materials securely together (after they have been pinned), so that they may be correctly stitched. Cotton of a contrasting colour to the material which is to be tacked should be used, as it is more easily seen and removed when the stitching has been done. The stitch is made by taking up a sinall piece of material on the needle, and passing over a larger piece — thus forming a long stitch on the uppermost side (see diagram 4) . Diagram 4 — Tacking This style of tacking is suitable for fixing the material of a skirt to its lining, etc., and must always be done flat on the table or skirt board. For fixing seams, either for trying on or for stitching, the tacking stitches must be of a more equal size (see diagram 5). Diagram 5 — Tacking for seams In tacking the seams of a bodice, or where- ever greater firmness is required, it is advisable to make an occasional " back- stitch," so that the tacking may be more secure for fitting. Otherwise the seams would " give " when being fitted, and would be too tight when the seams were stitched. N.B. — The back-stitches must all be cut before the tacking is removed. For fixing silk or velvet, needles or steel pins should be used for pinning and fine silk for tacking, and every stitch should be cut before removal, to avoid marking the material.