Page:Every Woman's Encyclopedia Volume 1.djvu/249

 227 DRK88 PRACTICAL MILLINERY By MRS. ERIC PRITCHARD Conti>i%ud from pai;$ j6. Part j How to Cover the Shape— Cutting the Material— Stretching and Fitting the Cloth over the Brim — Slipstitching the Edges— Joining the Crown to the Brim HThe last article dealt entirely with the ele- mentary details of shape making, and left the spartra shape wired ready for covering. This process must now be carefully followed. For the autumn season cloth may be taken as the most seasonable and most popular fabric, with the exception of " mirroir " velvet. The latter erial, ever much costly mat- how- is more and difficult to manipulate. A thin, smooth cloth should be chosen, and it is unwise to give less Fig. 1 t h a n 3 s. I id. a yard (double width), three-quarters of a yard being sufficient. Place the spartra shape on a square of the cloth, which should be suffi- ciently large to allow for turning over the brim. Placing the corner of the cloth to the front, mark its position on the s p a r t r a shape (see sketch). The right side of pum™ ■Y. y TMmt^ x(1 Fig. 2 the material must face the brim, as this piece of cloth is intended, after the necessary fitting has been completed, for the top of the brim. The necessary fitting is carried out as follows : . Pin flatly round the edge, and avoid . using many or coarse! pins, as. they are apt to mark the cloth. F'8- 3 Pin firmly round the head marks. These operations are clearly shown in the illustrations, which should be closely followed. ^ •• /. / <<• '. .. Cut circle one inch within the head mark. Snip up as far as the head marks, being very careful not to cut beyond. Then remove the pins. Mark the front, back, and sides with pins or pencil marks, then cut the cloth round the edge of the brim, not forgetting to leave one inch for turning. Then re^move the pins, and take the cloth off the Fig. 6 /' brim. The clqth should now be replaced on the top of the brim, pl^ding the front, sides, and back marks in their proper positions. The right side of the material must be out- side, and the snips will then fit all round on to the side band.