Page:Every Woman's Encyclopedia Volume 1.djvu/105

 8? NKBOLKWOIIK HOW TO MAKE FIVE COLLARS COLLARS FOR HALF A CROWN A Peter Pan Collar with Original Design— Buttonholing— Satin, Crewel, and Outline Stitches— A Double Stock Collar with Chain Stitch and French Knots— How to Work Blanket, Lace, and Bullion Stitches IB W/hite muslin or linen collars, made of good ^ material and well embroidered, cost, if bought, from is. 6d. to is. 9d. each. It is worth while, therefore, to know how to make them at home for a few pence. The collar in illustration No. i is a Peter Pan made of linen, price is. 4d. a yard, with an original design worked in D.M.C. cotton, No. 25 (Mouline special), price id. a skein. METHOD OF WORK Cut the collar to the size and depth required, and machine on to it a narrow neckband either of lawn, cambric, or muslin. Fold the collar in half, place it over carbon or tracing paper, and sketch the design. If this method is adopted, the pattern will be exactly even at both ends. If one is unable to sketch an original design, a transfer paper pattern can be used. Then work tiny scallops round the edge in buttonhole stitch, working along a traced line a small distance from the edge. After the buttonholing is finished, cut the edge away with a very sharp pair of scissors. BUTTONHOLING Work from left to right. Put the needle in on the line to the right side and close to the point where it started and bring it out again exactly under the last point to the depth to which the scallop is required. Hold the cotton with the thumb of the left hand so as to form a loop, and the needle comes up inside it. Arrange the loops so that they come exactly and evenly together. An edging can be made in small scallops (see illustration) or in a straight line, according to taste. The three rounds worked on collar are in satin stitch. This is often worked from left to right, but can be worked from right to left. It is a succession of stitches put side by side at even distances. Put the needle in at the top, and bring it out exactly underneath where it was put in to the depth re- quired for the leaf, or scroll, and work over and over in this way until the flower or scroll, is completely covered. The lines on the collar are worked in outline stitch. This is very like crewel stitch, only the cotton should be placed to the left of the needle, and in doing crewel stitch it should always be kept to the right-hand side. li crewel or outline stitches are worked properly, those on the wrong side look like ordinary back-stitches. Outline Stitch Scalloped Buttonholing Straight'edge Buttonholing Note. In making the collars always leave an inch of neckband at each end, so that they can be neatly buttoned or fastened on to the dress or blouse. Collar 2. This is the newest kind of double stock -collar. It is made of fine muslin, with an original design worked in crewel stitch, chain stitch, and French knots. Method of Work. Use robe muslin, price IS. per yard, and cut the collar to the depth of two inches, making a narrow French hem along the ends and Cut a foundation band, Crewel lower edge. ^^., ^ x^uiiviauxwix ucmva, o. also two inches deep, of double "*^ material, and place the upper edge of collar between edges of band, and machine it along. Sketch a small pattern on to the muslin, and embroider it with Moravian cotton No. 7, price 2d. a reel. Work the flowers in crewel stitch and the stem in chain stitch. To do Chain Stitch. Work from above down- wards. Put in the needle on the line, and bring it out about one-seventh of an inch lower downa the line. Hold the thread in place with the thumb of the left hand, and put the needle in again at the place where it came out, and withdraw it a little lower down ; thus each stitch is looped inside the last. Care is necessary to keep all the loops exactly of one size. A few French knots look well akmg the stem of chain stitch. Collar 3. This dainty little collar sets closely to the neck, and is a favourite with those who like to wear high collars. It is made of robe muslin, edged with tatting. To Work French Knots. Put the needle through the work from the wrong side and make a knot on the right side of the material. To do this, hold the working thread down firmly with the thumb of the left hand, and twist the cotton two or three times round the French Knot needle, and put it through to the wrong side of the material very near the hole where it came out, say two or three threads at the back of it. French knots are most useful as flower centres, or for outlining leaves, etc. Method of Work. Cut a long, straight piece of muslin 34 inches deep (this allows for turn- ings) and 26 inches long. Machine very small tucks i^ inches long across the top of the muslin, taking care to pull the threads through to the wrong side, and tie them to keep the tucks from coming undone. After the tucks are made, put the piece of material between the edges of foundation band and machine along it. Decorate the edges, corners, and centre with a simple pattern of tatting (directions for mcking which will be given in a subsequent article) or with narrow real lace. Collar 4. This Peter Pan collar is made of fine lawn, braided, and the satin stitch and French knots are worked with D.M.C. cotton. No. 18, price id. a skein.