Page:Escoffier - A Guide to Modern Cookery.djvu/38

 It is likewise necessary to remember that in order to make perfect fish stock, only the sole or whiting should be used. In a case of emergency, however, i.e., if the supply of the latter were to run short, a quarter of their weight of brill bones might be added to them. But all other kinds of fish should be avoided in the preparation.

12— FISH STOCK WITH RED WINE

This stock is comparatively rarely used, because, in practice, it is naturally obtained in the cooking of the fish itself, as, for instance, in the case of the "Matelotes." Be this as it may, with the recent incursion of a custom which seems to demand, ever more and more, the serving of fish without bones, the following formula will be worthy of interest, as it is likely that its need will henceforth be felt with increasing urgency.

Fish fumet with red wine may be prepared from all freshwater fish, as well as from the remains of sole, whiting, chicken- turbot, and brill. It is generally better, however, to have recourse to the bones and remains of that fish which happens to be constituting the dish — that is to say, the bones and trimmings of sole in a stock for fillet of sole, the bones and trimmings of a chicken-turbot in a fumet for a chicken-turbot, and so on. The preparatory formula remains the same, whatever the kind of fish used may be.

Quantities for making Four Quarts of Fumet with Red Wine. — Four lbs. of bones, heads, and trimmings of the fish to be served; three-quarters lb. of minced white onions; three oz. of parsley stalks, two bay leaves, four small sprigs of thyme, and four cloves of garlic ; two bottles of red wine and five pints of water.

Mode of Procedure. — Put all the above-mentioned ingredients in a thick and tall stewpan, boil, skim carefully, and allow to cook twenty to thirty minutes on a moderate fire ; then strain the stock through a colander into a tureen, to be used when required.

Remarks upon Fish Stock with Red Wine. — This stock stands reduction far better than white fish stock. Nevertheless, I urge the advisability of trying to obtain the required quantity without reduction. In its preparation, one may use some mush- room parings, as in the case of white stock, if these are handy, and they will be found to lend an agreeable flavour to the fish fumet.