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 ride. My Angora host's servants could not even be induced to accept a tip when I left. At Angora there was none of the Levantine haggling over the price of a cab. In Constantinople I decided always to leave such matters to the porter, who was a kindly man and did his best. Nevertheless, I should seriously advise the Nationalists, when they are back here, to fix a tariff for luggage and cabs, as the traveller is now intolerably imposed on.

There is compensation, of course, in the return to Western comforts, if not luxuries; above all, of the hot bath. I have already taken three; and they tell me that, if I still don't feel clean, it is only because the water is always brown. One can, further, obtain the services of a manicurist, a hairdresser, and a chiropodist, all worthy men; and how I enjoy these hot-house sitting-rooms, and sheets like satin on the bed! A touch of fever and full permission to stay tired, are quite enough to make me perfectly content with my one "weary" hat—until my luggage condescends to get un-lost.

General Harington invited me to the Harbié (British Headquarters); chiefly, no doubt, to hear about the big men I have seen in Angora. There are few Englishmen more keenly interested than he in the personalities of the Nationalist leaders, particularly, of course, "the Pasha." He speaks affectionately of "that nice, honest, fine soldier," Ismet Pasha; and describes Refet Pasha as "a very clever man, one from whom I have never had an unkind or discourteous word. We are the best of friends."

I asked him whether "he was altogether in sympathy with the Turks."

"You must remember," he answered, "that I was with General Wilson. No one could have had a finer chief; and no man, I dare to say, could have followed more closely in his chief's footsteps than I."

"Could not our troops be withdrawn, while such an act might still seem le beau geste?"