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 CHAPTER XXIX

EN ROUTE FOR CONSTANTINOPLE—A NIGHT AT BILIDJIK UNDER THE FROST-LADEN SKIES

One does not expect comfort in an unheated railway carriage, with snow a foot and a half deep, and the temperature 15° below zero. As we left Angora we also noticed that one of the carriage windows was missing, and a courteous official kept back the train to insert one from another compartment! We were grateful, indeed, for even then the cold was hard to bear.

The little engine is now ploughing its way downhill but still slowly, since halts are needed to renew its strength for the double task of "traction" and sweeping away the snow.

We are well supplied with food for a five days' journey, so that over a cheerful meal we can almost forget to feel frozen, and soon find we have covered the thirty-five hours to Eski-Chéir.

From Eski-Chéir to Kada-Keuy, where the lines have been cut, is a short distance; but, mercifully, it is not so cold as in the mountains. From there we travel in a yaili (native carriage) which has evidently seen better days and, let us hope, better springs. They have been removed altogether from one side, and we should have been easier without the worn remnants on the other! As there are no seats, one has to be propped up by any available rugs or cushions, unless you prefer lying down at full length. But the little cart is lined with red-cotton brocade, while green curtains, looking-glasses, and tassels complete the "decoration"! It must be delightful to