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 with their scarlet and gold, in striking contrast to the grey courtyard and the black dresses or mantillas of the lady visitors; there are the frescoes, the statues: and over all a veil of mystery and the charm of history.

From the time one's carriage rumbles over the stones of the great unshaded courtyard to the side where the Pope's apartments are situated, one has the sensation of walking over a book of sacred history. It is true all Rome is history. The Vatican, however, is the history of the Catholic Church from the beginning, and as you go up the marble steps you instinctively lower your voice, walking slowly and silently. For have not all the greatest figures in the world's history passed up that staircase?

There is everywhere a delightful odour of books; but where are the books? Uniformed diplomatists, high officials, generals, cardinals in their scarlet splendour, priests in black and scarlet and purple, attendants in red damask court breeches, walk noiselessly in and out. All the chairs seem so big, and the consoles and vases so huge and so valuable, that a portrait of the kindly face of Pope Pius X. is a welcome change. Seeing me looking at the peaceful, saintly face, my neighbour whispers: "C'était un vrai père." One notices also a beautiful bust of Pope Benedict XV. Why do the photographers never do justice to his fine intelligent face?

Monsignor X. has come to fetch me. He, too, is keenly interested in Angora. Now I am taken to the Throne Room; the Holy Father comes forward to greet me. He stands whilst talking to me, with one hand resting on a large piece of antique furniture. Beginning to speak in English, he continues in French.

The Pope speaks most modern languages; and, as he receives every day, keeps himself in personal touch not only with the best-known Catholics, but with all the important personalities who come to Rome. He has travelled extensively, is well-read in many languages, and has written books of the highest value. As a younger man, Monsignor Ceretti—the Paris Papal Nonce—has told us, the Pope used often to read and