Page:Encyclopædia Britannica, Ninth Edition, v. 6.djvu/488

Rh COSTUME [ROMAN. traced it to a Greek origin, the tebenna having been worn in Argos and Arcadia (Foilux, vii. 61) apparently from early times. Under the tebenna, or toga, which was necessary only for public appearance, the Etruscans wore a short tunic similar to the Greek chiton. For workmen and others of inferior occupation this appears to have been the only dress. Youths, when engaged in horsemanship and other exercises, wore a chlamys round the shoulders, just as the youths similarly engaged on the Parthenon frieze. But the Etruscan chlamys, again, is semicircular in cut, and was fastened on the breast by buttons and a loop, or tied in a knot, whereas the Greek chlamys was oblong and fastened on the shoulder by a brooch (perone). On public or festal occasions the Etruscan noble wore, besides the tebenna, a bulla, or necklace of bullce, and a wreath, corona Etrusca. The bulla was a circular gold locket containing a charm of some kind against evil. On the later sarcophagi the male figures wear not only a wreath, or corona proper, but also a garland of flowers hung round the neck. The Roman manner of wearing occasionally the toga, with the end thrown over the left shoulder, and wrapped round the waist (Gabino cinctu}, was derived, it was said, from Etruria. The upper fold of the tebenna could be drawn up over the head if needed. As a separate male head-dress there was the galerus, a hat of leather, said to have been worn by the Lucumos in early times, or the apex, a pointed hat corresponding to the tutulus worn by females. The fashion of shoes worn by Roman senators was said to have been derived from Etruria. Etruscan shoes were prized both in Greece and in Rome. ROMAN. Male dress. Fig. 7 represents the full Roman dress of tunica and toga, the former being visible only on the right shoulder and breast. The toga as here worn is, when spread out, a nearly ellip tical piece of cloth, its greatest length being three times the height of the person who wears it, and its greatest breadth equal to at least twice the height of the wearer. It is, there fore, correctly called toga rotunda. The first step is to double back a segment of this ellipse so that it may nearly resemble a semicircle, and thus also justify the other definition of the toga as semicircular With the long straight edge so obtained, and with the smaller segment on the outside, the toga is thrown over the left shoulder, one end hanging down in front and over the left arm to the ground. The long end is then gathered round the back with the right hand, brought under the righ t Fi a. 7. Bronze statuette, wearing arm and across the body, T S a - Brit - Mus - and finally thrown again over the left shoulder so that it may hang down the back some distance. The segment which was doubled back may be drawn over the back of the head like a veil, or, more generally, is drawn up as far as the neck and round the right shoulder, from which it forms a sweep in front of the body resembling the curve of a bay, whence it is called the sinus. The end, at first allowed to fall down in front, is drawn up a little and hangs over the edge, which passes round the waist in front. This is perhaps what is calhd the umbo. Instead of- the loose end of the toga being thrown over the left shoulder, as here, it was sometimes carried round under the left arm and tied tightly round the waist. This was called the cinctus Gabinus, and from having been once, it appears, a common fashion of citizens when engaged in war, was retained as the official form in certain ceremonies arising out of war, as at the opening of the temple of Janus. The toga was of a thin woollen stuff, and as to colour was always white for the ordinary burgesses. A white toga with a purple border (toga prcetexta) was worn as a distinction by those holding public offices, entitling them to the curule chair and the fasces, by the great colleges of priests (Flamen Dialis, Pontifices, Augurs, Septemviri, Quindecimviri, and Arvales), but in this case only during the act of performing their offices, and by boys up to their sixteenth year, when they assumed the toga virilis. The tribunes and aediles of the plebs and the quajstors were denied the right to the praetexta. A purple toga (toga purpurea) was always the mark of high office, and as such was worn by the magistrates of republican times, though not except on public occasions, as well a3 by the emperors. The purple toga was sometimes embroidered with gold (toga picta), and it could only bo worn with an under-dress of the same colour (tunica palmata). The praetexta, on the other hand, with ita purple border, could only be worn along with a white tunic under it with a purple stripe (clavus}. The prsetexta was laid aside when the wearer retired from office, but the clavus, or purple stripe on the tunic, was retained, and became in consequence the distinguishing mark of the senatorial order. The tunica corresponds exactly to the Greek chiton, reaching, like it, half way down the thigh, and being girt round the waist, but with the apparent difference that the Greeks rarely brought the stuff pressed down by both arms up round the arms so as to form sleeves down to the elbows, as did the Romans frequently. Further, it was a custom of the Romans to wear two tunics, Augustus is said to have worn four. The one next the skin was known as the subucula, and ths other as the siipparus, or intusium. Only the latter had sleeves (tunica manicata), and over it passed the girdle (cinctura). The tunic of the senatorial order had, as has been said, a broad purple stripe, lat^is clavus, woven into it down the front, whence it was called tunica laticlavia. That of the knightly order had two narrow purple stripes and was known as tunica angusticlavia. Tunics with two narrow stripes, one passing over each shoulder before and behind, are seen on Roman bronze statuettes of boys represented acting as Camilli at sacrifices. The tunic was usually of linen, just as the toga was of wool, and the national colour for ordinary purposes was white. Poor persons were doubtless content with the natural colour of the linen or wool, and when in mourning the higher classes wore a dark-coloured toga (toga palla or sordida), though this was not always the rule. More convenient than the toga, but retaining a general likeness to it, was the pallium, an adaptation of the Greek himation. Among other substitutes for the toga were (1) the tribea, which formed the official dress of the Augurs and Salii, resembling in shape the Etruscan tebenna, and being purple in colour ; (2) paludamentum, an adaptation of the Greek chlamys, worn by the emperor as head of the army, purple in colour, though white was also allowed ; (3) sagum, or sagidum, similar to the last, but worn only by soldiers ; it differs from the chlamys in having the